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Martin Greenfield,bespoke tailor-Quality?

post #1 of 24
Thread Starter 
I was admiring a client's blue DB blazer the other day.It had an exceptional cut,cloth,drape,pickstitching,etc.He wore it well.I just knew it was bespoke.I inquired as to who his tailor was,he replied,Martin Greenfield.Where is he located ?Anybody from the Forum ever have any experience with him? What's the good word?Quality,prices?
post #2 of 24
He used to be Clinton's tailor, I believe. koji
post #3 of 24
He's something of a rock star among tailors. Brooks Brothers will often have him take measurements in their stores, typically during their made-to-measure events. He was recently in San Francisco at their Post Street store. Evidently he's a gracious and charming gentleman.
post #4 of 24
Martin is indeed a gentleman. Shirtmaven can tell you much more. His is one of he better 'makes for stores/tailors' operations, commonly called "CMT" (Cut, Make, Trim) in the trade. As well, I believe he also has a few direct clients who actually go to him. From what I am told, his son(s?) are involved in the business as well and do most of the day-to-day operations. They are located in Brooklyn, N.Y.
post #5 of 24
Greenfield is located in Brooklyn, NY (Varet St?) and operates a clothing manufacturing factory. They do a lot of MTM and ready-made for designers and retailers. I believe they make now for Flusser and made for Holland & Holland when they operated from 57th St. I spoke with Greenfield's son a while ago about their custom capabilities and was told they are offered to individuals on a select basis. I guess you have to know the secret code word to gain entrance. I would not recommend having a custom suit made by any factory, and I certainly don't need to feel they're doing me a favor by making a suit for me. Grayson
post #6 of 24
I believe that Greenfield's business is 100%, or maybe 99%, CMT.  Which is to say, he only takes "walk-ins" at the Brooklyn store from well established customers.  The rest of us have to pay the mark-up at this or that retail outlet.  The best deal by far on a Greenfield suit through another store is at Brooks Brothers. The quality is very high. Greenfield is one of the few factory operations I know of in the U.S. that can still turn out a hand-padded lapel and chest, though they only do it for certain retail outlets and of course it costs more. The Brooks suits are machine-padded, but the shouders, armholes, and collar are all done by hand. Clinton's suits were designed by Donna Karan, made in Greenfield's factory.  He handled her MTM program.
post #7 of 24
He doesn't take many direct customers because that would irritate the retailers who constitute 99% of his business.
post #8 of 24
Quote:
I believe that Greenfield's business is 100%, or maybe 99%, CMT.  Which is to say, he only takes "walk-ins" at the Brooklyn store from well established customers.  The rest of us have to pay the mark-up at this or that retail outlet.  The best deal by far on a Greenfield suit through another store is at Brooks Brothers. The quality is very high.  Greenfield is one of the few factory operations I know of in the U.S. that can still turn out a hand-padded lapel and chest, though they only do it for certain retail outlets and of course it costs more.  The Brooks suits are machine-padded, but the shouders, armholes, and collar are all done by hand. Clinton's suits were designed by Donna Karan, made in Greenfield's factory.  He handled her MTM program.
Indeed. MG does a lot of stuff for NM -- for example, overcoats (including their LP Storm System overcoats, which I think are the best things since sliced bread).
post #9 of 24
The BB trunk show is going on through next week (4/22 I think) where you can get the Greenfield MTM suits starting at about $1100. Best if you can go when Martin is there to measure you though. I got my first one there last fall and it turned out great. The shoulders are a little stronger than I would like but just my preference. A great value in MTM.
post #10 of 24
Otis - If I'm remembering correctly, you posted about your exerience with Mr. Greenfield awhile back and that, in turn, prompted me to take the plunge - turning a bundle of accumulated AmEx Membership Rewards points into Brooks gift certificates and treating myself to a MTM measuring session with Mr. Greenfield last month. He is truly delightful and his comments and observations on fit of the the suit I'd worn to the store, minor adjustments on this or that of the proposed suit, various things that weren't exactly symmetrical on my decrepit old body, etc. were a real education. I only hope to be that sharp and to enjoy what I'm doing in my profession nearly as much - when I reach his age - as he obviously does. The suit is targeted for delivery in three to four more weeks and I'm looking forward to that date like a kid at Christmas.
post #11 of 24
I will give a little more back story. Martin worked at the famous 3G's clothing factory which had been located on 14th st. in NYC. He was not one of the G's. It wasowned by the Goldman Brothers. They made an excellent and very sharp garmant. Styled for a well dressed jewish and Italian customer base. Louis Roth made the same kind of garment on the west coast. Sold only in the best stores. When they closed, Martin opened up in Brooklyn. I remember shipping fabric orders there when I worked at Roger Laviale in 1981. I remember the conversations my boss had with MArtin. Business was tough and he was always asking for a larger line of credit. The factors did not want to approve the orders. The orders were shipped with out factor approval because my boss had faith in Martin Greenfield and trusted that the bills would be paid. When I first started my clothing business, I used to make suits as well. I had Greenfield make a few suits. It was an excellent garment, but since I did not have a car, I hated schlepping out on the L train to a rather seedy neighborhood to pick up the suits. Thanks to Neiman's, Donna Karen, Brooks, and the old custom shop the factory survived and is still turning out an excellent garment. Carl www.cego.com
post #12 of 24
PITAronin - yes that was me - glad to hear you took the plunge. You will not be disappointed. What type of suit/fabric did you go with?
post #13 of 24
Martin Greenfield Clothiers is one of the leading private label manufacturers in the USA. In other words, it manufactures for various stores, and the stores place their label in the garments. Greenfield does not manufacture under its own label. Alas, Greenfield is the last remaining mens clothing factory of any size in NYC. It makes RTW and MTM Golden Fleece for Brooks. I understand that the Greenfield MTM is offered at only Brooks's top locations. It also makes clothes for Neiman Marcus on a lesser scale. Greenfield also makes suits for many custom tailors and boutiques around the country. Some custom tailors openly disclose that their suits are made by Greenfield. There are other custom tailors who keep this a secret. Brooks makes no secret that its MTM is made by Greenfield. Brooks takes full advantage of Mr. Greenfield as not only a master tailor but a master salesman. Many confirmed Brooks customers turn-out for his trunk shows. Indeed, he is sort of a senior ambassador for Brooks. The Greenfield garment is the star of Brooks as far as I am concerned. I place the Greenfield garment at the highest level of American manufacture. I would place it second to Oxxford. I place it ahead of Hickey Freeman and Adrian Jules. Greenfield makes a lovely garment, and I prize the many garments that he has made for me. Martin Greenfield is the nicest gentleman in the business. To be a customer is a privilege. Martin's sons, Tod and Jay, are fully involved in the business. Therefore, we will be assured that there will be Martin Greenfield clothes in the future.
post #14 of 24
I haven't bought a Southwick suit in about ten years or so (as far as I know, I could've bought from private label stores without knowing it). Though with all my MTM Southwicks, I am very happy. I don't know what Southwick quality is like nowadays, though friends tell me it is very good. To that end then, how would any of you who've seen the final product of both Southwick and Greenfield compare the tangible (and not so tangible) benefits of each?
post #15 of 24
Mack I was getting suits from Greenfield in the early 80's. NYC was quite different. You could still score heroin at Ave B and second St. All of the liquor stores in the east village had bullet proof Glass Barney's was still at 7th Ave and 17th street. Fred was still alive and the Gene and Bobby Pressman and not ruined the business yet. The only restaurants on Smith Street in Brooklyn were either spanish or Chinese. I even had a customer who owned a porn shop on 42nd street. I had to go though the store to the basement to do the fittings. Carl
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