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Let's talk about summer!

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
As the world around us gets colder and colder (if you're living in the northern hemisphere, that is) I know this topic sounds really strange and untimely. If not strange, then at least mildly encouraging, for those of you who hate winter. The tailor I was angsting about who made my last suit turned out to be a winner. The suit he made me is a work of art. It might not compare to something like Oxxford or Kiton, but it's $500 U.S., and at that price, for a very decent bespoke, I really can't complain. So I was browsing through his lightweight fabrics, thinking that I would definitely come back for something for the warmer months. Summer here in Korea is very extreme; we don't reach any blistering temperatures, but it gets extremely humid and, during the monsoons, very wet. I've been meaning to dive for something in a small glen plaid with an overcheck. I see these often on the occasional odd and old Korean man, but the fact that I hardly see anyone wear one makes me want one. The shop also had the usual tropical-weight worsteds in navy, grey, and pinstripes. What do you look for in a warm-weather suit? How do you judge the quality of a tropical-weight fabric? Do you prefer fabrics that feel "drier" or those with a more silky feel? What colors or patterns would best accomplish the goal of looking and feeling cool?
post #2 of 6
great question. i've also been considering getting a summer suit, custom made, and for $500 (i get a discount). my tailor is also korean. i have one fall/winter suit and the rest are basically year round weight. i've never seen a glen plaid in a truely summery fabric, though that doesn't mean they're not around. to me, a real summer suit requires a light colored cotton. i'm thinking of a light grey cotton twill with a one-button jacket, no shoulder padding, partially lined (to keep cool), with side-vents and flat front pants. i'm pretty sure i'm going to ask for it without a buttonhole on the lapel (useless to me), and without buttons on the sleeves, (ditto).  let me know what you think and i hope this helped a little bit.
post #3 of 6
Must we talk about summer? Fall and winter are my favorite time of year (although I do love late spring); I love the clothes of winter: overcoats and duffle coats, three-piece suits, tweed jackets, flannels. Actually, I tend to wear the same weight suits year-'round, and just change accessories and shirts to pastel tones, brighter colors, etc. I do love dark tan gabardine suits for warm weather, and I have a beaut of a three-button seersucker that I wear throughout summer.
post #4 of 6
Thread Starter 
Someone told me that cotton wrinkles way too easily, and that made it a less-than-ideal suit fabric. But then again, I haven't seen or worn one in person, so I'll leave judgment up to you folks who have I don't know if I can pull off a seersucker here; it's considered very, very odd by the culture. They'll think I look like a clown. I'll try and find something besides the usual blue-and-white, perhaps something in a light tan. I have a gabardine suit, and it's wonderful for the early summer, but by the time it's August I'm sweating buckets and it doesn't do the fabric any well. It's wonderful, an almost steel-grey. Silk dupioni is out of the question for me. I doubt my tailor carries it; I don't see many people wearing it. And I also doubt I can even afford it. Does anyone have any experience with fabric blends of linen/something else?
post #5 of 6
A couple things I look for in a summer suit: 1. Light color. Call me old fashioned, but I don't wear light colored suits in the fall/winter. I reserve those for summer, when I can break out the light tans, light greys and cream colored suits. And yes, even the seersucker. Speaking of which... 2. Seersucker. Seersucker is extremely cool in the hot weather, due to the puckering in the fabric. While it does conjure up images of fat southern politicians, it can be worn stylishly. I have a beige and white seersucker, three button with double vents and flat front pants. Of course it may play differently in Seoul, but as logn as you stay away from the sack suit, seersucker is fine. 3. Light weight fabrics. Personally, I'm partial to tropical-weight wool over cotton or linen. I feel the drape is better, and it can be very breathable. Incidentally, it's true that cotton wrinkles easily, but linen even more so. Irish linen tends to hold a press and is a bit softer than Italian linen. 4. A looser fit. It could be personal preference, but I'm much more comfortable with a bit of a looser fit in the summer. Room to move, room to breathe.
post #6 of 6
Thread Starter 
I'll have to try looking for some lighter-colored fabrics. I definitely don't want to do the khaki thing, though. If I wore something of that shade, it'll be more of a cream. This isn't related to the topic, but do double-breasted vests have peaked lapels, no exceptions? Or can they, unlike their suit jacket brethren, be notched? he;lp
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