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gitman bros vintage...anyone tried out yet? - Page 3

post #31 of 39
Got one of these (thanks poodlerock!). It's a nice shirt, but I would probably hesitate to pay full freight--a made-in-US, nominally slim oxford is just not that "special" anymore, with BB BF and Band of Outsiders around and often on sale. This is one of the models which I guess (from the tags) is available at Nordstrom, so maybe they just have a safe buy, but it does not have the button on the back of the collar, or any other "interesting" details like BB BF has. I was a little put off by the lack of any box/shoulder pleat.

Fit is good for me--a little bigger than my black fleeces from the first BB BF season (BB3, Gitman Vintage 16/L), certainly larger than a BoO XL, and just a better cut than RL custom fit oxfords in L.
post #32 of 39
Very, very interesting. Two questions:

1. Are the buttons MOP?

2. Where can one buy those shirts in the UK? (Including online retailers)
post #33 of 39
Hi Guys,

the Spring 2010 Gitman shirts are now in at Stel's. They're looking really nice!
post #34 of 39
What's the fit like on these? For reference, a BoO large fits great on me.
post #35 of 39

Note wholesale prices averaging $26.25 in 1984 on primarily Japanese woven Threadtex (TTX) tartanish fabrics. That would have been circa $55 retail.

There've gotta be beaucoup original NOS Gitmans out there languishing in the musty, dusty stock rooms of old traditional retailers or hanging unwanted from Pater's estate in almost pristine condition on Goodwill racks.

Gitman did not use MOP. They used a chalky white looking faux horn button on dress shirts. In the '80s Gitman was so popular that Lands' End, Kenneth Gordon, Nantucket Shirts, Norman Shirts and others copied the double track stitching at he the collar edge and the aforementioned buttons. At the time Gitman shirts incorporated more stitches per inch on the front plackets, collars and yokes than competitive shirts. It's been a while but the last I looked that was not the case. Oddly, vintage Gitman shirts had double-needle side and sleeve seams that weren't particularly impressive.

For the thrifters: The brand 'Bert Pulitzer' preceded 'Gitman Bros.' as basically the same shirt before the early '80s. That's not to be confused with later B.P. shirts which were out of B.P.'s control. Gitman made Paul Stuart's basic shirts for years. Also Sak's private label. If you see a private label shirt with double track stitching on the collar edge, chalky white buttons, and collar band label as below, either in white on green or vice versa, it's Gitman. Obviously, sport shirts had tortoise-like faux horn buttons.

RN number for Ashland Shirt Co. is RN55760 (probably on old Bert Pulitzer)
RN number for most vintage, with a small v, Gitman Bros. shirts was/is RN63620
They're the same source. The RN# on these shirts can be found on the lower front center beneath the placket, unless that's changed.

Photo borrowed from a recent AAAC Trad thread. Note the double-needle collar edge stitching.
post #36 of 39
there is a 30 page thread on the street clothing re: gitman vintage and the store Context a sf sponsor sells them i've bought three from here, but they are down to only one style left if you are ok with paying $150ish for a shirt, check out hamilton's rtw brand hamilton1883, good quality and at least the XLs are much more trim than the gitman vintage
post #37 of 39
Originally Posted by jsqfunk View Post
there is a 30 page thread on the street clothing re: gitman vintage

Thank you.

Apprehensive that Streetwear & Denim might be a tough neighborhood one toted one's blackthorn cudgel over there.

Gosh! Geewhillikers. So, Gitman's now flying as an urban boho hipster object of desire? Whocoudanode a 'traditional shop' stalwart would be resurrected as 'streetwear'. buzz, buzz

Do the cognoscenti realize that Lands' End flogged basically the same cotton poplin tartan check stuff for years at $30 a pop? Although made in Honduras, or wherever, the LE sport shirts had single needle side seams. Gitman probably have double-needle side seams. So, as soon as they disappear from LE (Bean also?) such things become 'cool'?

The old Gitmans, if the yoke was held to a light, would reveal a fake split yoke. When a real split yoke is held to a light a 1/4" or more dark area of cloth 'inlay' on each side of the seam is visible. Fake inlays only exhibit a very thin dark area which is where a continuous piece of cloth has been stitched to simulate a seam.

$175+ eh? Barnum and Mencken are repeatedly proved insightful. Ah, youth
post #38 of 39
I am the Manager of Haberdash in Chicago, IL. I currently carry the Chambray Gitman Vintage shirts, here are the colors and size availability as of 11:50am CST.

Teal - 2 Medium / 3 Large / 1 X-Large

Purple - 1 Small / 1 Medium / 2 Large / 2 X-Large

Orange - 2 Medium / 1 Large / 1 X-Large / 1 XX-Large

Blue - 1 Medium / 3 Large / 1 X-Large

If you would like to order one, please call and ask to Phillip @ 312.440.1300

Special thanks to Elliott for bringing this up! I owe you bro!
post #39 of 39
Originally Posted by mrUnicorn View Post
hows the measurement on the vintage? chest and shoulder measurement? on a medium and a large?

Measurements on GBV vary from style to style. Context does a good job posting measurements for each style they sell. I'm a S in most GBV styles, but a M in a few of the others.
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