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Which is better made? - Page 3

post #31 of 37
There is a difference between Neapolitan suits made RTW for the American market and the "real deal" made by Naples' bespoke tailors.  Kiton suits sold here all have shoulderpads, for instance.  A true bespoke Neapolitan coat will not: at most, one with a spalla con rollino will have a smidgen of wadding a la A&S.  The spalla camicia will have nothing but the tape. Anyway, I don't find that Kiton is too lean; it is certainly not uncomfortable to me.  Whether it is a good value is another question.  Attolini is leaner than the "average" Neapolitan bespoke coat, but still comfortable: not a Brioni, by any means.  The "real deal" coats that I have seen and worn are the most comfortable garments in the world, hands down.  They are full and draped but quite lean.  This is achieved partly by the famous full, shirred sleevehead (which either looks sloppy and half-assed, or charmingly degage, depending on your point of view), partly by the cut (lots of drape yet a front cut instead of a front dart to slim down the coat), and partly by the long, long waist that starts almost under the armhole and finishes almost at the hips.
post #32 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
There is a difference between Neapolitan suits made RTW for the American market and the "real deal" made by Naples' bespoke tailors. Kiton suits sold here all have shoulderpads, for instance. A true bespoke Neapolitan coat will not: at most, one with a spall con rollino will have a smidgen of wadding [i[a la[/i] A&S. The spalla camicia will have nothing but the tape. Anyway, I don't find that Kiton is too lean; it is certainly not uncomfortable to me. Whether it is a good value is another question. Attolini is leaner than the "average" Neapolitan bespoke coat, but still comfortable: not a Brioni, by any means. The "real deal" coats that I have seen and worn are the most comfortable garments in the world, hands down. They are full and draped but quite lean. This is achieved partly by the famous full, shirred sleevehead (which either looks sloppy and half-assed, or charmingly degage, depending on your point of view), partly by the cut (lots of drape yet a front cut instead of a front dart to slim down the coat), and partly by the long, long waist that starts almost under the armhole and finishes almost at the hips.
How does Borrelli fare? Jon.
post #33 of 37
Borrelli suits are in some respects more SR than the other Neapolitans. Shorter coat, swelled chest, nipped (shortish) waist. Still soft overall; there's no such thing a stiff Neapolitan coat. But unlike most of SR, the gorge is super-high, and the lapels are quite wide.
post #34 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Borrelli suits are in some respects more SR than the other Neapolitans. Shorter coat, swelled chest, nipped (shortish) waist. Still soft overall; there's no such thing a stiff Neapolitan coat. But unlike most of SR, the gorge is super-high, and the lapels are quite wide.
Quality-wise are they better / worse than St. Andrews? How about when paired to other Neapolitan makers? Jon.
post #35 of 37
I don't know enough to say. It's been a while since I pawed over either a Borrelli or a St. Andrews. I will say that I still think, of the brands mentioned so far, Attolini is the clear winner in terms of quality, handwork, etc.
post #36 of 37
Quote:
I don't know enough to say.  It's been a while since I pawed over either a Borrelli or a St. Andrews.  I will say that I still think, of the brands mentioned so far, Attolini is the clear winner in terms of quality, handwork, etc.
Jon and I were blown away by some Cesare Attolini sportcoats down at the Vacca store in Boca Raton. koji
post #37 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton,April 11 2005,18:26
I don't know enough to say. It's been a while since I pawed over either a Borrelli or a St. Andrews. I will say that I still think, of the brands mentioned so far, Attolini is the clear winner in terms of quality, handwork, etc.
Jon and I were blown away by some Cesare Attolini sportcoats down at the Vacca store in Boca Raton. koji
Koji means Palm Beach Yeah, they are worth robbing a bank for... Jon.
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