There is a difference between Neapolitan suits made RTW for the American market and the "real deal" made by Naples' bespoke tailors. Â Kiton suits sold here all have shoulderpads, for instance. Â A true bespoke Neapolitan coat will not: at most, one with a spalla con rollino will have a smidgen of wadding a la A&S. Â The spalla camicia will have nothing but the tape. Anyway, I don't find that Kiton is too lean; it is certainly not uncomfortable to me. Â Whether it is a good value is another question. Â Attolini is leaner than the "average" Neapolitan bespoke coat, but still comfortable: not a Brioni, by any means. Â The "real deal" coats that I have seen and worn are the most comfortable garments in the world, hands down. Â They are full and draped but quite lean. Â This is achieved partly by the famous full, shirred sleevehead (which either looks sloppy and half-assed, or charmingly degage, depending on your point of view), partly by the cut (lots of drape yet a front cut instead of a front dart to slim down the coat), and partly by the long, long waist that starts almost under the armhole and finishes almost at the hips.
post #31 of 37
4/11/05 at 8:48pm