I believe it's called a 'stroller', like morning wear, only... not. Daytime semi-formal, like a tuxedo is nightime semi-formal.
Correct. Â The stroller is basically a defunct mode of daytime formal wear. Â (Sorry, Tutee.) Â It should not be worn with a bowtie, however, but with a long four-in-hand in black or silver or black-and-white or maybe some light but reasonably subtle color. Â The stroller does not have silk facings on the lapels or button coverings. Â It is for all intents and purposes an odd suit coat, either in black or dark gray, with besom pockets and peaked lapels. Â Sometimes one would see them with notched lapels, which I suppose is not exactly "incorrect," but it doesn't look quite right to my eye, either.
It seems bespoke morning coats are usually (if not always) more expensive than a regular suit and overcoat. Does anybody know why they cost more? More material used, perhaps or more workmanship needed?
Both. Â Much more material than a regular suit coat. Â Less than a typical overcoat, but it's much harder to make. Â There is a waist seam, for instance, and all the cloth from the skirt on down is cut in separate pieces from the chest and back. Â The rear vent is also quite tricky. Â Since not many of morning coats are ever ordered, not too many tailors know how to make them, or even want to learn. Â The big SR houses generally have to have one cutter on staff who can do it, just in case. Â But it's hard to convince anybody to be that guy: he has to go to a lot of trouble to learn skills that will rarely be put to use. This also drives up the cost, if you only have one guy (if that) on the whole team who knows how to do it.