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Any questions for CEO of Oxxford Clothing? - Page 2

post #16 of 24
I have gotten mixed messages about Oxxford's MTM program. The tailor last time told me that they make a paper pattern as part of their MTM program. This is not my understanding of typical MTM programs. Can you clarify whether Oxxford really creates and cuts from an individual paper pattern or do they just modify existing stock models? I second the request for a better selection of English cloths.
post #17 of 24
Coincidentally, I'm wearing one of my Oxxford MTM suits today.  They do not make an individualized pattern, far from it.  When they first begin to fit you, they take a series of stock jackets from the rack and match the jackets with a series of trousers.  Basically, it's mix and match time.  Eventually, you'll find a style of jacket and trousers that work decently together.  As I had mentioned earlier, my jacket and trousers are mismatched in their proportions in that the lapels of the jacket are quite narrow while the trousers are cut quite full, almost baggy.  After you agree on a jacket/trouser combination, they tweak it to try to get the optimal fit.  The inherent shortcoming of MTM, as I've stated before, is you are trying to fit the customer into a model of a garment with pre-determined measurements and proportions,  as opposed to bespoke where you're building the garment around the customer.  Unless you're the lucky duck whom Oxxford used as a fitting model for their various suits, their MTM program will yield a close, or not so close, approximation of a proper fit.  It's a pricey way to go, though, and with Oxxford's MTM program a few hundred dollars shy of a well-made bespoke garment, I would not be shy in going the bespoke route.  Now, given the paucity of really talented bespoke tailors, the Oxxford MTM program is an intelligent alternative.  I admire Oxxford's adherence to the very highest manufacturing standards, but MTM is what it is, and it does have it's limitations. Grayson
post #18 of 24
Please extend my regards to Mr. Cohen. Tell him that one of Oxxford's "evangelicals" says hello. Mark Seitelman
post #19 of 24
Interesting, Marc. the process that you describe is what I would expect. Last month, when I visited Oxxford, the visiting tailor, Rocco, specifically told me that he was going to measure me and create and cut a paper pattern for me. When I mentioned that this was unusual for a MTM program, he repeated that he would create a paper pattern. The saleman, Tashae, stood there and nodded in agreement. I wish I could get a straight answer. If they are just modifying stock models, then told me as such.
post #20 of 24
Bry, you've been around the block by now, so you know the difference between MTM and custom or bespoke.  Louis Boston evidently has an exclusive contract with Oxxford for bespoke garments, and my suggestion for Oxxford, with the growing interest in bespoke, is to expand their bespoke program beyond Louis.  Problem is, bespoke is a headache and a hassle because of, well, because of finicky, obsessive, hyper-perfectionists like many of us.  Takes a strong stomach to have to deal with some of us on a regular basis. And, it's way, way too time consuming a process.  MTM is a much better business model.   Grayson
post #21 of 24
Bry, I doubt Rocco meant that he'd create an individualized pattern in the true custom sense. Perhaps he was taking liberties in suggesting this, where the reality is that he'd be taking your individual "measurements" and applying those measurements to the pattern for the MTM program. At best, it's the equivalent of taking a stock pattern and modifying it to your specs, which is what most so-called custom tailors do anyway. Grayson
post #22 of 24
Marc, yes, I do know the difference between MTM and bespoke. That is why I was disbelieving of Rocco's claim that he makes an individual pattern. That is also why I questioned him again specifically giving him a chance to explain clearly the process. Perhaps, he assumed that I was an unwitting customer who would not know the difference. Also, the salesman, Tashae, also had the opportunity to clarify whether they were merely modifying stock patterns or creating an individual one. I passed on placing an order. I would rather do business with someone who will be straighforward with me.
post #23 of 24
For 99% of Oxxford's customers, their MTM program is fine.  I've seen many Oxxford customers whose MTM suits look fine.  Most people who see my Oxxford suits are probably favorably impressed.  But, I can spot the subtle shortcomings here and there in my suits and others' Oxxford suits that most people don't see, or don't care about.  Let's face it, most people, excepting many of us, have more pressing issues on their minds other than whether their jackets fit properly around their shoulder blades or whether their side vents are sufficiently closed when not walking or whether there is a correct curvature in the sleeve.  I have a rather asymmetrical body, and so the balance of my Oxxford suits is totally thrown off.  I know it, many in this forum would readily see it, but for the most part nobody else takes note.   Oxxford's MTM program is a dramatic step up for most men, and in this regard, they are offering a quality product and they're to be applauded for upholding the highest standards at a time when other brands, sadly American brands, cut corners.  Oxxford deservedly enjoys many fans and admirers. They are an "American treasure" at a time when there are not many in the apparel industry. Grayson
post #24 of 24
After talking to the Oxxford Store I believe that I have an answer to the question as to whether Oxxford makes an individual pattern for the MTM customer or whether it modifies a stock pattern. The answer is a little of both. An individual pattern is made for the customer using the company's model as a jumping-off point. In essence, the company's model (e.g., Gibbons, Critiden, Manhattan, etc.) is modfied pursuant to the client's measurments, posture, preferences (e.g., loose fit or tight fit). A pattern for the individual customer is then made. Adjustments are made to the pattern on the next order. Adjustments are made if the customer switches suit models from the Rennaissance to the Radcliff. If there is a significant change in weight, the pattern might be scrapped, and a new one made. In comparison, other MTM companies do not make an individual pattern. They take an exisitng pattern and merely make a few adjustments pursuant to the measurements. When Rocco, the head tailor from the factory, was taking measurements for MTM orders at the Oxxford Store, he was doing so under aforementioned system. He was not making a bespoke pattern as a bespoke tailor would on Savile Row. I met Rocco, and he knows his tailoring. He is Italian trained. Although he did not measure me, I believe that as head tailor of one of the world's biggest hand tailoring firms he would make an excellent suit. When Oxxford was honored with President Bush's order upon his first election, the company sent its former president and Rocco. Cheers.
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