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  1. Nathan Parker

    Does this work?

    He does, but I'd argue that it was in spite of his black tie, not because of it. As someone pointed out, almost any other color would improve the overall look.
  3. Nathan Parker

    Tweed Jacket Tailoring

    Hmmm, no. I just envisioned using it the way I'd use an overcoat. Warmth, more than trying to look pretty. I sort of had in my mind a vaguely disheveled look, or "dishabille" to use Flusser's favorite, rather than overly dressy. Perhaps this isn't the sort of jacket for that....it clearly...
  4. Nathan Parker

    Tweed Jacket Tailoring

    I guess I'm looking at photos of englishmen actually engaged in sporting activities, hunting, etc. The sleeves seem to go to the wrist. Maybe that's a different sort of jacket though
  5. Nathan Parker

    Tweed Jacket Tailoring

    So I bought this tweed jacket from Orvis: It's just what I wanted. I took it by my tailor's and he marked it up to shorten the sleeves and taper the waist a bit, but I've since started to wonder: is that the right look for a tweed jacket? Should it look like a sports coat that shows 1/2" of...
  6. Nathan Parker

    Shirt Open Collar Design

    Probably, but it still communicates the look of many open collars that aren't pulled too far back. Quote: Hmmm, I can't really tell what effect that has; photos like that are staged, so that even bad collar designs look good. What exactly is this supposed to do for the look? My shirt...
  7. Nathan Parker

    Brown wingtips with blue suit for wedding

    It's not really an issue of what you must wear, it's what you should wear if you want to avoid the raised eyebrow or "nice shirt" comment. :-) Regardless, I'm sure your friends will just be glad you're there, no matter what you wear.
  8. Nathan Parker

    Brown wingtips with blue suit for wedding

    It really depends on what sort of wedding it is, what sort of people are attending, and what sort of look you want to present. The purple shirt, lighter brown shoes, and lighter blue suit are not particularly conservative or formal. That look might be very out of place at some weddings, but...
  9. Nathan Parker

    Do you consider this a perfectly fitting shirt?

    You say the shirt is not transparent, but I can see where your pants transition to skin, so I don't think that's a lighting issue. And I agree with losing the pocket.
  10. Nathan Parker

    Shirt Open Collar Design

    Yes, the one bespoke shirt that I didn't have (much) of a problem with was the one with a banded collar, which is very light. The ugliest was the BD collar, which was a little taller than normal; it sorta folded over, with collar edge as the fulcrum. Yoke too tight, hmmm, trying to picture...
  11. Nathan Parker

    Shirt Open Collar Design

    To me, this is the ideal look: This looks sloppy: What's the difference between the two shirts? I'm guessing there are two design issues: 1) Button stance; the top photo has a higher second button. (Ryan may have two buttons undone..can't tell) 2) Placket/fabric stiffness; a...
  12. Nathan Parker

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    So, I had a few custom shirts made; this was an in-person measurement and the shirts were made in Hong Kong. Overall, I'm pleased with the fit, but I'm a bit dissatisfied with how the open collar looks. The material, which I assume is broadcloth, just flops open and folds over itself, looking...
  13. Nathan Parker

    Bespoke, too cheap?

    I dunno, I'm a bit leery of purchasing such a complex item online; I ordered my first internet shirt the other day, and people usually say it takes a few shirts to get it right. I don't want to have to order a few suits to get that right. According to otctailor, I needed the barrel chest...
  14. Nathan Parker

    Interview Dress Advice

  15. Nathan Parker

    Bespoke, too cheap?

    It's an interesting observation that Memphis is formal; I wouldn't have expected that. Lots of suits downtown, of course, but I've never worked in any environment in the last 15 years that wasn't business casual. When I'm in Starbucks out east, a guy in a suit stands out a bit, to me anyway. But...
  16. Nathan Parker

    Interview Dress Advice

    True, but I think in the IT field it's probably due to cluelessness, rather than disrespect.
  17. Nathan Parker

    Bespoke, too cheap?

    I did. They're the ones that measured me for the Trands MTM. My salesperson was young and new, but he brought over the tailor who really seemed to know what he was doing, which gave me a confidence boost. I'm just a little leery of the unknown Trands brand. The fact that James Davis backs it...
  18. Nathan Parker

    Interview Dress Advice

    I won't say that sort of thing never happens, but I think it's *unlikely* an interviewer with sense would make a hiring decision based solely on such superficial issues. However, I do think a person can be unconsciously and unfavorably prejudiced due to such cues, and that means the interviewer...
  19. Nathan Parker

    Bespoke, too cheap?

    Ok, I visited another gentleman that does MTM. He had a small...shed...behind a beauty shop. This guy was better kempt than the other guy, but still his suit was something closer to what I'd expect on a pimp. Double-breasted plaid, very baggy pants, strapped shoes. Did he have a flower in his...
  20. Nathan Parker

    Bespoke, too cheap?

    Agreed, but I was trying to allow for a possible difference in taste. And for the idea of "a cobbler's children have no shoes." Still, in the poor light, the suit looked like a double-knit, and didn't really seem to fit well, although perhaps with his posture, nothing would have fit well. His...
  21. Nathan Parker

    Bespoke, too cheap?

    So, I met with this guy today. He says he actually does cut the patterns himself, although he has the cutting and sewing done in Chicago. He didn't bring me any examples of his work, although I had asked him to; he's going to come back in a few days. I didn't much like the suit he was wearing...
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