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Search results
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Would You Take Perfect Machine Made or Imperfect Handmade?
Example of pad stitching the canvas Camel hair then horse then domette, Pre trimming and working up, the chest is already developing. The dirty side view shows the bumps of domette that contact the chest to puff it out. The lapel rolls back with the pad stitching the stay tape curling back with...- Brendon
- Post #113
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Would You Take Perfect Machine Made or Imperfect Handmade?
Machine made is generally dependable in make in that the level that they consistently Hi thank you for the photos. the picture of the one in London is correct method to the canvas. The other photo if you would like to private message me I could discuss this with you. I cannot recommend highly...- Brendon
- Post #112
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Would You Take Perfect Machine Made or Imperfect Handmade?
Hi All It is really interesting the conversation. some of these discussions are what I had when I was transitioning from MTM to bespoke. The good mind is curious and skeptical and I think it's good to justify your work. MTM is significantly easier than bespoke. A shop assistant takes...- Brendon
- Post #109
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Would You Take Perfect Machine Made or Imperfect Handmade?
I know it doesn't sound a lot but 1/8 of an inch at the neck point where you crooken or straighten a suit makes a significant difference.. everywhere else on the coat, you are right it doesn't matter. It could be sewn out in error. One other significant thing is unless you are careful people...- Brendon
- Post #84
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Would You Take Perfect Machine Made or Imperfect Handmade?
You have a great deal of experience with this and I hear you. I would agree it is a moveable feast of quality and fit. As I noted previously MTM of factory made suits are always fairly consistent with finish and tailors will vary greatly depending on who they have at hand to make. I am in New...- Brendon
- Post #78
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Would You Take Perfect Machine Made or Imperfect Handmade?
Hi It's all a little more complicated than this with a drop shoulder. One option is to like you say take a wedge. If doing this it is likely you will also have to clear the armhole on this side. when a shoulder drops there is also pressure on the lower front of the scye and this may need...- Brendon
- Post #74
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Would You Take Perfect Machine Made or Imperfect Handmade?
Hi All this thread gets to the quandy of tailoring vs factory. I am a bespoke tailor somewhere on the spectrum of tailoring ability.I have a unique view on this as I used to be a made to measure specialist ( whatever that is? But it used to say that on my card of he company I worked for). I was...- Brendon
- Post #72
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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How to press linen and cotton trousers
Hi I hope this helps Pressing trousers cotton is fairly straightforward. The trouser is not going to retain its newness as long as a woolen pair so unless it it is navy or black, or other dark colours you can afford to be a little more cavalier. Important things. Line up the side seams below the...- Brendon
- Post #14
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Tailors in NZ
Hello I was asked to post an example of my work. When I get time to make myself something I will post an image, I would not normally post a commissioned garment but this is what I was working on last week so photographed this as there is no other photographed work, but as it is for someone I...- Brendon
- Post #96
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Tailors in NZ
To have what done, are we talking alterations or having something made? I have not heard of him but who knows, why not be brave and talk with him directly. If he is a tailor ask him where he trained. Just as you would any other profession. a recommendation is always good as the tailor is then...- Brendon
- Post #91
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Amount of Fabric Needed for Suit and Pants
Hi all I have not read all the posts from this thread as some of them were getting a bit bitchy, handbags at 10 paces! 1/- Impossible to cut a suit from 2.2 metres in my experience. 2/- If you want a good relationship with a tailor why ********* out of the margin on the cloth.....Once you...- Brendon
- Post #81
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Australian Members
Oh come now eighface a little laughter never hurt anyone,,and I did give you the name of a good cleaning book so you don't muck up your next favorite pair in the laundry. Let me know what sort of stain it was and I will come back to you with a solution from the book if you like Go well Brendon- Brendon
- Post #60,986
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Australian Members
Crikey eightface you are a brave man posting a pale stain like that on SF, proximity and all.... a good book for all that stuff was written by an Australian industrial chemist, book was called "Spotless". A few years old now but I think they update it from time to time. Worth having a copy in...- Brendon
- Post #60,965
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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P Johnson Tailors - San Francisco and Los Angeles Visit - May
Hi Spectre Yes, I wouldn't say offended, they are obviously just trying to make a living as we all are.,But a little, wouldn't you be. I am not sure of your profession say your an accountant, what if a bookkeeper started calling themselves a qualified accountant. Why call yourself one thing when...- Brendon
- Post #21
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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P Johnson Tailors - San Francisco and Los Angeles Visit - May
Hi Spectre I thought I was being quite logical in my argument and contribution to this thread. I am a tailor, but leave that aside. I am not the one hanging " Tailor" above my door and being misleading as I pointed out quite carefully. If 5 of you have commented on P Jonson and 1 or more of you...- Brendon
- Post #18
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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P Johnson Tailors - San Francisco and Los Angeles Visit - May
Hi all I had the rare chance of having a look at a P Johnson suit the other day. Nicely finished as you would expect from a good Italian factory. 6 week delivery excellent instead of up to many months from a busy tailor. having a bespoke suit from a tailor can be a lottery if the tailor does not...- Brendon
- Post #13
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Suitsupply NYC
Not sure where to post this but as project runway seems to take place in NY then here seemed as good as any? In a one television house I am sitting here with my partner watching Project Runway. Tim Gunn is wearing a navy pinstripe suit. Obviously a little behind in New Zealand on the up to date...- Brendon
- Post #8,635
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread
Hi Fishball yes sorry for my laziness. I had a look at my latest pricelist from HFW and you are right! Much cheaper. I take your word on the percentage and applaud you thorough calculations.That is quite competitive. Right in the middle of a few suppliers of 150's. Some 5 GBP cheaper some 10 GBP...- Brendon
- Post #13,763
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Australian Members
Hi All Rembrandt Suits are in Wellington, Nae Nae, Lower Hutt to be exact. They make for a lot of MTM and production. Made in NZ and China. Fused front with canvas chest. Very basic but tidy. Not as detailed as Italian suits factory. They have the Holland and Sherry agency. Crooked (tailoring...- Brendon
- Post #60,480
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Australian Members
Hi Coxsackie I have no objection if the tailoring is outsourced. Savile Row have been doing it for years and depended on a series of waves of immigration for it's production off the Row. Still they were tailors. I am a Cutter and Coat-maker I cut then after a baste trouser fitting, outsource...- Brendon
- Post #60,452
- Forum: Classic Menswear