Vetements is terrible. The first season (maybe second too, I forget) was great. It was a fluke.
Yohji, Issey, Anrealage are the only shows I've seen I liked.
(And also the designer I work for but I can't comment on that because I'm a bit biased.)
Designers showing in Paris are becoming scarily commercial too. It's quite concerning with the state of the industry from a creative standpoint.
Everyone I see on the street is in some sort of tech bullshit look (Nike, y-3,...