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Posts by thesilentist

That's pretty much the textbook case to go custom. As you outlined, you're not going to be able to find something off the rack due to your drop and waist/thigh. For clients similar to you that I've fit in the past, I typically fit for the shoulder/chest first, then adjust the drop accordingly. Depending on how the jacket sleeve and armhole fits, I may deepen the armhole, give more room in the biceps but taper the sleeve cuff. Trousers typically require raising the back...
Gold museum calf tennis lows arrived today, just in time for fall. No regrets on getting these. Worth the wait.
As someone who worked in menswear retail, tipping isn't typical. I can only recall in about 4 years maybe three times receiving any sort of tip. It's just not that kind of job where it happens. Same went for my coworkers. However, it was greatly appreciated and instantly makes the customer stand out in the sales associates' mind. If you're looking to develop a relationship with that associate in the future, it couldn't hurt. In one instance, some trousers went on markdown...
Typically, I get my ties at 9cm/3.5" Read/heard a "rule" once that tie width should be roughly the same as your lapel width. Made a lot of sense to me, keeping things proportional.
Yeah, that lead time can be a bit rough. But PF's business is a mixture of individual customers that "walk in" and business-to-business accounts comprised of several MTM suit companies in Chicago and department stores. So, they do a high volume of alterations at any given day. If you go there, you'll see what I mean with all the racks sitting around.
I usually recommend my clients to Peter Field for alterations. They're located on the northern side of the Loop. You can see their price list for Chicago here: http://peterfieldcustom.com/chicago-alterations-and-tailoring/ I've used them for some difficult and "easy" alterations in the past -- including shoulder work. The crew there is very approachable and I find them easy to work with in both personal and business capacity. Worth taking a look at. As in many things,...
For those that wanted Chelsea boot shots in the wild: Extremely comfortable out of the box. I was a bit concerned about having slightly narrow feet (I wear a 10.5 C in most Alden lasts -- Copley, Aberdeen, even Barrie), but going TTS 10.5 worked just fine. This makes my third footwear purchase from Epaulet's in-house line (other two are sneakers) and I'm really impressed with the product quality so far. I would love to see desert boots!
Two Vanda ties, knotted and worn: Brown-Orange Flowers -- Reminds me a lot of an ancient madder. Finish is really dry and has some "grip" to the fabric when knotted. Still, the weight is perfect and knots well. Dark Navy Houndstooth (sold out) -- You'd have to look really close to know it's dark navy rather than black and under the right light. Material is a bit more structured and stiff. The resulting knot feels slightly thicker when tied. Also, bonus Ultimate White...
It was a good day to be a size 10.5. Picked up the white sport trainers.
It's probably Boglioli. Call the store. That'll always be the quickest way to know current stock on new items.
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