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Posts by mafoofan

I argue with him all the time. My point was simply that, whatever the "Neapolitan" cut is as we know it today, it was not a purposeful diversion from prevailing norms. For the longest time, LH believed it was just making English-style clothes. Detractors will chime in that there are many other important Neapolitan tailors, but nonetheless, LH is the only one with continuous presence and a consistent style (the old stuff looks just like the new).
If you ask Mariano, he'll say their way is simply the correct way.
But, from my understanding, the drape cut is not purely defined by the existence of a side body, no?
Also, it's true, in many (if not most) cases Rubinacci will not correct for a dropped shoulder. Neither will Genarro, I suspect. It is a purposeful decision and part of the desired look. If you want to see an example of extreme dropped shoulders corrected by Rubinacci, look at whnay's stuff. They gave him a bit of pagoda.
Regardless of how closely A&S and its offshoots adhere to the Scholte cut, the Neapolitan stuff should be viewed as its own separate species. Unlike Scholte/A&S, any "drape" is limited to the space between the chest and shoulders and completely incidental. Sometimes it is there, sometimes it isn't. It depends on the cloth and the build of the wearer. I don't think anyone is trying to make it appear. At least, that's what Genarro, Mariano, Luca, and the younger Solito have...
^^^ Interesting. I hope someone can help you figure that out. I haven't the foggiest idea.
Yep.
Well, I ordered my first bespoke suit from Rubinacci when I was 25 and I still wear all my stuff from back then. If price is not so much of an issue, so long as you stick to staples and ask for enough seam allowance, and you stay fit, it could work.
Flusser's advice on collar vs. face shape is just wrong, in my judgment and experience. According to him, the wideness of your collar spread should be inversely related to the wideness of your face. However, narrow collars just make wide faces look even wider and wide-spread collars just make narrower faces look narrower. If I had to come up with a rule for collar spreads based merely on face shape, I would propose the exact opposite of Flusser's (mis)guidance.
Style is a measure of the choices one makes. Avoiding choice is not a workaround.
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