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Posts by mafoofan

A more savvy option would be to hire the cook who makes the chicken and pay half the price.General Tso's chicken can be awesome, by the way. On the one hand, anybody ordering it from a take-out place is going to get shit. Shriveled-up scraps of uncrispy maybe-chicken in red syrup. On the other hand, ordering from a good restaurant will net very different results depending on whether you're Chinese. They tend to give white people anonymous chunks of "premium" white meat. ...
Do you think they made that assumption because you are a foreigner? I think you paved the way for me when I got there, as they knew in advance I wanted to look like a shriveled-up, grumpy old Neapolitan.Matuozzo started pinning me up real tight in my try-on shirt. I told Simona that I wanted to be fitted like an old man and she quickly and noticeably changed strategy.Maybe it's like going to a Chinese restaurant as a white person. You've got to prove your chops.
They "fixed" whnay's and Luca's jacket shoulders are very squarish relative to the traditional "old man" style they have traditionally done. Maybe they are trying to be more modern, but personally, if I wanted my shoulders corrected, I probably wouldn't want Rubinacci in the first place.
I argue with him all the time. My point was simply that, whatever the "Neapolitan" cut is as we know it today, it was not a purposeful diversion from prevailing norms. For the longest time, LH believed it was just making English-style clothes. Detractors will chime in that there are many other important Neapolitan tailors, but nonetheless, LH is the only one with continuous presence and a consistent style (the old stuff looks just like the new).
If you ask Mariano, he'll say their way is simply the correct way.
But, from my understanding, the drape cut is not purely defined by the existence of a side body, no?
Also, it's true, in many (if not most) cases Rubinacci will not correct for a dropped shoulder. Neither will Genarro, I suspect. It is a purposeful decision and part of the desired look. If you want to see an example of extreme dropped shoulders corrected by Rubinacci, look at whnay's stuff. They gave him a bit of pagoda.
Regardless of how closely A&S and its offshoots adhere to the Scholte cut, the Neapolitan stuff should be viewed as its own separate species. Unlike Scholte/A&S, any "drape" is limited to the space between the chest and shoulders and completely incidental. Sometimes it is there, sometimes it isn't. It depends on the cloth and the build of the wearer. I don't think anyone is trying to make it appear. At least, that's what Genarro, Mariano, Luca, and the younger Solito have...
^^^ Interesting. I hope someone can help you figure that out. I haven't the foggiest idea.
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