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Posts by johanm

I'd say Ambrosi's market draw is the ability to achieve a contemporary slim silhouette along with precise fit. It's hard to find bespoke pleated trousers that fit properly while looking cool the way Ambrosi's do. Maybe NSM or some other Neapolitan makers can do a similar job, but most traditional tailors produce old man pants or get the proportions wrong when attempting slim pants. Anyway the handwork is just an embellishment to justify the high margins, much like David...
Went today as well, picked up a couple of ties and plaid merino scarves for spring. Nice selection though very crowded around noon.
Personally I don't think flannel looks right without cuffs and a fair amount of break, i.e. with a rich and comfy effect, like a chunky sweater.
I'd definitely prefer them to continue shipping out each item as soon as it's done, following a first in/first out system, for their core MTM operation at least. Would consider this a model of efficiency for this type of business. It's conceivable that there would be different shipping schedules for CMT, remakes, alterations, RTW, etc., as they might be handled by different teams, or even an overstretched individual as opposed to a full scale factory.
My timelines so far: Shirt 1: Ordered 12/20, shipped 1/3 Shirt 2: Ordered 1/8, shipped 1/21 Trousers 1: Ordered 12/26, shipped 1/3 Trousers 2: Ordered 1/7, shipped 1/21 Vest: Ordered 1/11, not shipped yet All were based on measurements; did not send garments in for copying. Seems like they group items together for shipping even if placed as separate orders.
How do you know when production begins on your items?
I ordered one too in grey dugdale tweed herringbone. Flannel should be nice too.
Not sure why the hate for TM Goldline. In addition to feeling and wearing great over time, they have the best colors IMO, superior to Alumo and G&R. I posted these examples in a recent thread on end-on-end shirtings:
I think Marco's point is that Rubinacci's (and Liverano's) margins are higher than the US/UK tailors because of the cheaper labor, and also higher than the smaller Italian tailors notwithstanding the additional overhead from storefront/traveling. But of course you have no choice but to pay the margin if you want a Rubinacci / Liverano garment.
+1. The taste level of their silk ties has gone way down. A couple years ago I remember wanting literally every tie on their website. Now everything seems to be mind numbingly soporific or some garish seasonal design with no use in a sensible tie rotation.
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