Not sure why the hate for TM Goldline. In addition to feeling and wearing great over time, they have the best colors IMO, superior to Alumo and G&R. I posted these examples in a recent thread on end-on-end shirtings:
I think Marco's point is that Rubinacci's (and Liverano's) margins are higher than the US/UK tailors because of the cheaper labor, and also higher than the smaller Italian tailors notwithstanding the additional overhead from storefront/traveling. But of course you have no choice but to pay the margin if you want a Rubinacci / Liverano garment.
+1. The taste level of their silk ties has gone way down. A couple years ago I remember wanting literally every tie on their website. Now everything seems to be mind numbingly soporific or some garish seasonal design with no use in a sensible tie rotation.
Hey Luxire - now that you have snaps, could you do Cucinelli-esque vests? I'm thinking Minnis flannel or one of those Dugdale tweeds or 13 oz suiting wools + quilting like what you use for the quilted blazer. This is what I have in mind:
Depends on what you want and if the other guy can do it. I like Patrick because he's worked with a ton of SF posters in the past and is generally familiar with the terms/concepts discussed here, so it's easy to communicate my preferences.
Posted some jackets upthread with my usual configuration - unpadded and short. Thought I would post one with their traditional Chan house style - longer jacket, structured shoulder. Cloth is Porter & Harding Glenroyal tweed (pardon the crease on the chest left; jacket was buried in a suitcase)A couple of the shorter/unpadded ones for comparison [[SPOILER]]