The problem w/ color 8 cordovan is that the color deteriorates rapidly after a few wears, looking rather cheap IMO.With a good quality calf (G&G rioja, Vass oxblood), you can easily polish it with black polish and get to a rich black cherry effect.
You might be right, but based on my fuzzy memory of looking through the book a few years ago, I recall mostly solid plain weaves with a few stripes and nailheads. Great fabric though, I have a couple suits that have held up beautifully with regular wear over 4-5 years.
This story reminds me of a point Vox once made about how there's the "Ivy" clothes tradition of restraint and subtlety, and the "haberdashery" tradition of bold colors and accessories, with the schools accusing one another of uptightness and tackiness respectively. This new shirt trend seems like a continuation of the latter, whereas SF tends to embrace the former.
Sounds like Luxire previously benefited from a strange setup where no duty was levied on packages to the US, but the loophole is now closed. Going forward, the choice might be paying a typical exorbitant Fedex customs+brokerage charge, or paying $20 per shipment upfront as duty prepay.