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Posts by johanm

Personally I don't think flannel looks right without cuffs and a fair amount of break, i.e. with a rich and comfy effect, like a chunky sweater.
I'd definitely prefer them to continue shipping out each item as soon as it's done, following a first in/first out system, for their core MTM operation at least. Would consider this a model of efficiency for this type of business. It's conceivable that there would be different shipping schedules for CMT, remakes, alterations, RTW, etc., as they might be handled by different teams, or even an overstretched individual as opposed to a full scale factory.
My timelines so far: Shirt 1: Ordered 12/20, shipped 1/3 Shirt 2: Ordered 1/8, shipped 1/21 Trousers 1: Ordered 12/26, shipped 1/3 Trousers 2: Ordered 1/7, shipped 1/21 Vest: Ordered 1/11, not shipped yet All were based on measurements; did not send garments in for copying. Seems like they group items together for shipping even if placed as separate orders.
How do you know when production begins on your items?
I ordered one too in grey dugdale tweed herringbone. Flannel should be nice too.
Not sure why the hate for TM Goldline. In addition to feeling and wearing great over time, they have the best colors IMO, superior to Alumo and G&R. I posted these examples in a recent thread on end-on-end shirtings:
I think Marco's point is that Rubinacci's (and Liverano's) margins are higher than the US/UK tailors because of the cheaper labor, and also higher than the smaller Italian tailors notwithstanding the additional overhead from storefront/traveling. But of course you have no choice but to pay the margin if you want a Rubinacci / Liverano garment.
+1. The taste level of their silk ties has gone way down. A couple years ago I remember wanting literally every tie on their website. Now everything seems to be mind numbingly soporific or some garish seasonal design with no use in a sensible tie rotation.
Try Soyella 170 or Thomas Mason Goldline 140. Great drape and a tendency to rumple rather than sharply wrinkle. I don't like crinkly 120/2 cloth either.
For what it's worth, I find Thomas Mason to be very solid cloth. My TM Goldline 140 shirts have been washed/pressed by the neighborhood cleaners upwards of 30-40 times with no visible wear.
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