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Posts by johanm

Ramones? Dior homme? You can't really generalize.
I wouldn't be surprised if some tailor caught wind of this SF group buy and complained to Reid & Taylor. I know that Shirtmaven from CEGO has directly complained to Grandi & Rubinelli, among other shirting merchants, about forum members organizing direct group buys. It undermines the tailor's ability to add a markup on the cloth on top of the tailoring charge, and also forces them to compete with CMT tailors that might not have the scale or resources to offer the name...
I think you've nailed it
Just as a point of clarification, the "goth" in goth culture and "goth ninja" doesn't reference the visigoths of Sack of Rome fame, but rather 19th century gothic literature like Edgar Allen Poe, Marquis de Sade, etc.
Fuuma's not the first person I've heard articulate those goals (i.e. intentionally painful, uncomfortable, vexing) for this clothing genre...you can read similar ideas on SZ, possibly even in transcripts of interviews with the relevant designers. Still I guess it probably isn't always the true objective, and may sometimes be a way to establish credibility or mystique for the brand.
To be fair, a garment that is purposefully uncomfortable (going by Fuuma's description of MA+ and CCP's objectives, not necessarily Unbel's jacket) is pretty subversive. You can be very open to non Western European aesthetics, or even the concept of suffering as a cost of aesthetics (e.g. high heels), while still drawing the line before masochism.
That's a good example. Nothing more uncomfortable for me than wearing something fragile or delicate that I'm worried about ruining.
Don't know why you are defending Luxire's QC with such vigor. They are certainly not infallible, and their USP is precision in execution.I'm currently in the middle of a remake process for 6 shirts where Luxire got the measurements off in several dimensions by 0.75"-1.25". Will post detailed photos and measurements, but only when the process is complete as mistakes happen and I would like to give them an opportunity to sort out the situation.To Luxire's credit, they agreed...
I don't consider 1cm error to be acceptable, at all. Especially if it's not just one measurement but various dimensions of the garment that are each off by 1cm+. It could easily throw off the whole look.
I see. The profiles of the Minnis, Hunt & Winterbotham, and Dugdale fabrics need to be updated, as all of those currently show running meter measurements.I would also make it clear that your website is designed to show GSM, so customers don't end up ordering "10 oz" canvas expecting a medium weight, and receiving a heavy weight 16 oz canvas.
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