The Smith Botany book also has some fantastic sharkskins that have the resolution/contrast of the Minnis and Harrisons versions with the feel of the Lesser 13 oz. They also have several shades from light to dark grey.
I had a similar issue with a trial shirt and for my current order in progress I pointed them to the following link for a possible solution:http://propercloth.com/reference/tailored-vs-full-shoulder-armpit-fit/The idea is to set the sleeve at a downward angle relative to the body, as opposed to "straight out" at a 90 degree angle. Credit to An Acute Style for identifying this approach earlier in the thread. Hopefully it's the answer.
How do people feel about the lightly lined, soft, fused collar, particularly when worn unbuttoned? Thinking about spec'ing it on subsequent shirts but worried it would look awkward (overly straight) without a tie.
Also, anyone have thoughts on going with an unfused neckband with aforementioned fused collar?