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Posts by johanm

Nice post. I like these points:People sometimes expend too much effort trying to resist these general ideas, often with all types of abstract theory and historical references, and end up spending lots of time on SF and $$$ to look only as good, or worse, than a random guy who walks into Brooks Brothers, Barneys, etc. and lets the salesman pick out his suits.
I wasn't saying lamb is bad, just that it isn't as luxurious as it's made out to be in this thread. I associate luxury in leather with buttery softness, like what you get from Loro Piana or RLPL, or the countless designer women's handbags made of lambskin (I haven't felt any Tom Ford leathers in person). The TOJ lamb is surely more sturdy and robust than those, but not nearly as impressive at first touch. There's a lot of exaggeration in this thread - so much so that when...
The black goat is not crispy and I wouldn't call it heavily textured. It's quite soft and has a grain pattern, but it's not pebbled (i.e. the texture is not raised).Personally based on owning 1 black goat and 2 black lamb jackets (one thick and one thin), I'd recommend the goat. It performs better and is all around more luxurious and expensive feeling than the lamb. I actually think the "luxe" aspect of the lamb is way overrated. It performs well, but it's much harder than...
Ramones? Dior homme? You can't really generalize.
I wouldn't be surprised if some tailor caught wind of this SF group buy and complained to Reid & Taylor. I know that Shirtmaven from CEGO has directly complained to Grandi & Rubinelli, among other shirting merchants, about forum members organizing direct group buys. It undermines the tailor's ability to add a markup on the cloth on top of the tailoring charge, and also forces them to compete with CMT tailors that might not have the scale or resources to offer the name...
I think you've nailed it
Just as a point of clarification, the "goth" in goth culture and "goth ninja" doesn't reference the visigoths of Sack of Rome fame, but rather 19th century gothic literature like Edgar Allen Poe, Marquis de Sade, etc.
Fuuma's not the first person I've heard articulate those goals (i.e. intentionally painful, uncomfortable, vexing) for this clothing genre...you can read similar ideas on SZ, possibly even in transcripts of interviews with the relevant designers. Still I guess it probably isn't always the true objective, and may sometimes be a way to establish credibility or mystique for the brand.
To be fair, a garment that is purposefully uncomfortable (going by Fuuma's description of MA+ and CCP's objectives, not necessarily Unbel's jacket) is pretty subversive. You can be very open to non Western European aesthetics, or even the concept of suffering as a cost of aesthetics (e.g. high heels), while still drawing the line before masochism.
That's a good example. Nothing more uncomfortable for me than wearing something fragile or delicate that I'm worried about ruining.
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