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Posts by UrbanComposition

Blue skies and crisp 58 degree air in the Marina today, so flannel. All RTW today: Borrelli jacket & shirt, no-name wooly tie and silk square (purchased off eBay), PRL dark green pents, Alden shortwings. No filter, Sony A6000 2.8 50mm prime lens.
I wish it were sunny in San Francisco today, Gus. I wore flannel in the city.
I'd love to have that jacket remade as bespoke, but as an OTR Borrelli Sorento, it's pretty perfect. Too bad they ended that line. What makes this fabric different from suiting glen plaid is both the scale (bigger) and the fabric (thicker). So if you go to a tailor, look for jacketing heavier than 12oz.
As an man of average height, the only thing I really notice on less-than-average height people in real life is that their eyes are lower than mine. Sometimes I can see a birthmark on their scalp. I've never considered cuffs, sometimes I observe a jacket too long or too short, and shoulder pitch is not nearly as noticeable as shoulder width. Most often I notice a nice fabric, pleasing colors, or tasteful pattern matching. Fat/skinny/ugly/jacked grill/small shoulders are...
You'll have your chance: I had zero fittings for the gunclub. It was all based off the three fittings of the tobacco fresco. TBH I'm curious as well to see the finished product & how it compares to the fresco. If it's good, I'll strongly consider sending out fabric and going for one fitting for small adjustments.
I think I see what he means, but ASAIK fittings per se does not make bespoke what it is. MTM takes an existing pattern and modifies it. Fittings can be involved (I think Steed offers them for his MTM) but usually aren't. Bespoke is when a pattern is drafted from the start based off of the tailors measurements and notes on your stance, the way your arms hang, etc. In other words, you have a pattern with your name on it. One is not necessarily better; bespoke is simply...
No, they both have my pattern. So, still bespoke.
Yeah, I may just send him cloth 2-3 months before my next trip and have a fitting for adjustments once I arrive. That might be the best middle ground. Arrigo and Palmisciano differ from each other but both do soft tailoring Napoli-style. I'd say Arrigo is more stylish, but I haven't yet had a DB by Palmisciano so the jury's still out. Both are subtle. Less outlandish than the Pitti-esque super spalla camicia sleevehead seen on the blogosphere.
Both are pretty much a one man show, with wife/sister helping out.
Both tailors mentioned they'd be happy to receive cloth and make/send suits now that they have measurements. Has anyone else done this? A little voice inside me tells me that not having a fitting, even with measurements, is less than ideal. Still, very convenient.
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