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Posts by UrbanComposition

When I was in Sicily last month I noted a lot of buttondown shirts, albeit with high(er) collars. Also, their oxford cloth is pretty light; from when I lived in Emiglia-Romagna I don't recall heavy, gnarly oxford cloth. A shame, really, because that stuff is great. Broadcloth buttondowns are pretty common there, and of course linen, as Greg mentions. Tonal/low contrast looks are awesome. Go for it.
Awesome. That is wonderful information.
Cool, good to know. Thanks.
By the way, is there an Italian word for "drape"? @carpu65 or @unbelragazzo
Interesting observations, everyone. It's always fascinating to hear what people see. The pick stitching on the brown is the same color, but because the RAF is more mottled, the stitching is more hidden. Indeed, when I was there he was working on a sweet herringbone overcoat that had the same style "puntino" & I could hardly tell it was there. Hip pockets end at the same height (at the buttonhole) but begin at different heights. Arrigo's begins closer to the hem. His...
I threw these on at the end of a long day, so no comments about disappearing sleeves or wrinkles (the tobacco just arrived the other day & needs to be ironed, and the left sleeve puckering went away after the pic was taken). This is to illustrate style differences of essentially the same jacket. Both are fresco, three roll two, patch pockets, puntino, two different tailors, both from eastern Sicily. What do you see?
That was a cool review. Thanks for the comparison, Billax. I do like longer points but I agree the weight/heft of the fabric makes a difference. The shirt I had made from Tailors Keep (made from another company, I forget which) used the heaviest, stiffest oxford cloth available. It arrived practically standing up but after three washes it has a wonderful rumply look.
I just tried both on, and while both fit fine, there are style differences between the two tailors. Then again, they share similar characteristics. Arrigo's jacket has plenty of drape and has a bit of a skirt, while Palmisciano's has practically no drape at all, a very clean chest, and a skirt that hugs the hips. Of course, these are standard and can obviously be adjusted, but it's interesting to see the "house style" of the individual sarto. Both have very nicely curved...
Not incredibly noticeable but that's what forums and detail shots are for, right? In all fairness, this is the first time I've used either tailor, and a simple "next time can you do thus-and-so" should iron out most issues. I will say they both nailed the fit. BTW the gunclub fits exactly like the fresco. Uncanny.
The color of the stitching is not my favorite but it's interesting how it disappears over the brown part of the check. Meh, I asked for "sportivo" so I guess I got it As far as the evenness goes, I should take pics of the frescos side by side to compare the puntini of Arrigo (the RAF) and Palmisciano (the tobacco). Both are more pronounced than the subtle pick stitching of the DB, and are different in style so I won't use that as a comparison.
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