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Posts by stubloom

The "specialized" relates to (a) the removal and replacement of the hardware and (b) access to a subcontractor that handles small replating jobs with consistently good results.
You've posed a number of questions related to (a) the stiff feel of your fabrics after cleaning, (b) the odor associated with dry cleaning solvents, (c) steaming of garments at home, (d) finding a competent cleaner, and (e) the elimination of smoke odor embedded in your sport coat. To (e) first. Any reasonably competent dry cleaner should have the tools to remove odors associated with smoke. That's as basic as it gets. As to (a), (b), (c) and (d), that requires more...
The hardware needs to be removed, replated and then replaced...not something you'd find at your local, franchised, we-use-Brazilian leather-to-resole-your-expensive-English-shoes cobbler store. Suggest that you call Factotum in Laguna Niguel, CA. Ask if you can email photos so they can accurately judge the labor involved. And expect to pay. This type of specialized work doesn't come cheap.
Cleaning and reweaving cost will be determined by the labor hours associated with the cleaning and the reweave. So the honest answer is that I have no idea what you would expect to pay for cleaning and reweaving. By the way, this is clearly not a task for the typical cleaner situated across the street from the supermarket you frequent. Suggest you take it to the "best" cleaner in your area for an evaluation.To find the "best" cleaner in your area, call the very best...
Damage appears to be moth damage. More specifically, damage by the larvae of the moth that need to feed to survive after they hatch. Moth damage is caused by moth larvae, not by adult moths. The female adult moth will only lay its eggs in a place where there is nutrition for the larvae to feed on when they hatch. That nutrition comes in the form of body oils and perspiration that is embedded in the fabric MERELY AS A RESULT OF WEARING. A proper cleaning of that shawl...
French cuffs are always appropriate under the right circumstances even for a 19 yo. However, if you are still in doubt and prefer barrel cuffs, you should take it to a competent tailor/alterationist and have the cuffs removed, shortened and reinserted into the sleeve (i.e., transform the cuff from french to barrel). The only additional consideration is that the french cuff has two button holes. You can solve that problem by asking the tailor to close one button hole and...
Clearly, you are not a "standard" size. Most folks aren't. So when you buy an off-the-rack shirt and get it "tailored", you eventually end up little bit of everything instead of a whole lot of something. An off-the-rack shirt or a "tailored" off-the-rack shirt will hardly ever fit like a quality made to measure or bespoke shirt. Sounds like you like the quality of Eton shirts. So find an Eton retailer who offers an Eton made to measure shirt. Most fine men's stores that...
There are 2 critical but SEPARATE components: quality of product and quality of service. It seems to me that you have start with quality of product. Quality of service is the icing on the cake. After all, what's the value of exceptional quality of service if the quality of product is mediocre to poor? So start with quality of product (fabric, measurement, construction, etc.). Quality of product will live with you for a long time. Quality of service will fade from memory...
Linings for suit jackets should always be Bemberg. Best internet source for Bemberg linings that I have found is B. Black & Sons in LA. They have a selection of about 10 colors. Make sure to ask your tailor how many yards you need. A typical suit jacket requires 3.5 yards.
Corduroy is typically (and, in my opinion, always should be) a dry clean only fabric. Perspiration is a water-based stain and typically requires wet cleaning/soaking to be fully removed if the extent of the perspiration is not confined to a specific area such as the underarms. So you have 2 potentially conflicting issues in 1 garment: (a) perspiration, being a water-based stain, typically requires a water-based cleaning solution which may distort the nap of the fibers and...
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