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Posts by stubloom

French cuffs are always appropriate under the right circumstances even for a 19 yo. However, if you are still in doubt and prefer barrel cuffs, you should take it to a competent tailor/alterationist and have the cuffs removed, shortened and reinserted into the sleeve (i.e., transform the cuff from french to barrel). The only additional consideration is that the french cuff has two button holes. You can solve that problem by asking the tailor to close one button hole and...
Clearly, you are not a "standard" size. Most folks aren't. So when you buy an off-the-rack shirt and get it "tailored", you eventually end up little bit of everything instead of a whole lot of something. An off-the-rack shirt or a "tailored" off-the-rack shirt will hardly ever fit like a quality made to measure or bespoke shirt. Sounds like you like the quality of Eton shirts. So find an Eton retailer who offers an Eton made to measure shirt. Most fine men's stores that...
There are 2 critical but SEPARATE components: quality of product and quality of service. It seems to me that you have start with quality of product. Quality of service is the icing on the cake. After all, what's the value of exceptional quality of service if the quality of product is mediocre to poor? So start with quality of product (fabric, measurement, construction, etc.). Quality of product will live with you for a long time. Quality of service will fade from memory...
Linings for suit jackets should always be Bemberg. Best internet source for Bemberg linings that I have found is B. Black & Sons in LA. They have a selection of about 10 colors. Make sure to ask your tailor how many yards you need. A typical suit jacket requires 3.5 yards.
Corduroy is typically (and, in my opinion, always should be) a dry clean only fabric. Perspiration is a water-based stain and typically requires wet cleaning/soaking to be fully removed if the extent of the perspiration is not confined to a specific area such as the underarms. So you have 2 potentially conflicting issues in 1 garment: (a) perspiration, being a water-based stain, typically requires a water-based cleaning solution which may distort the nap of the fibers and...
I have one client in Phoenix with about 25 to 30 (CG and MB) and one in Toronto (SM) with about 15 to 20 Abbarchi shirts. Love the fabrics and they launder beautifully -- no starch and hand pressed, of course.
Here's my best guess: The hotel valet wasn't available and he hung his suit in a steamy bathroom to "press out the wrinkles". As Despos always says: Steam Is evil. I'd modify that slightly by saying that indiscriminate steaming, including the indiscriminate use of a steamer, is evil.
Here's some reading material. Invest a half hour of your time and you'll know more about true quality cleaning than most "dry cleaners"! 1. The shocking word of ordinary dry cleaning and shirt laundry. Link: http://www.ravefabricare.com/true-quality-cleaning/2010/3/23/the-shocking-world-of-ordinary-drycleaning--shirt-laundry.aspx 2. The 10 deadly sins of ordinary dry cleaners Link:...
Please see response on PM.
I'll try to answer your questions as carefully as possible. Please excuse my bluntness. 1. The notion that dry cleaning is "bad" for fine garments is, to put it mildly, utter nonsense. Skilled dry cleaning and hand pressing will not harm or deteriorate your fine garments. Poor dry cleaning and poor pressing will. The reason that your tailor cautions you about "dry cleaning" in general is two fold: Firstly, these tailors have often witnessed the results of poor cleaning...
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