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Posts by Chauncey Gardner

Where tradition ends and legend begins is always hard to determine in these matters. And frankly my own rule is always to decide tailoring details upon what looks good on oneself and with the clothes one is wearing. I have always heard that it was the Prince of Wales, later Duke of Windsor, who popularized the Jazz Age taste for cuffed trousers. Certainly it was a risque style in an age when flat bottomed trousers were the rule. But as time went on and cuffs made...
What I learned from the Academy Awards - - - Unless you're Leo DiCaprio, don't ever imagine that wearing a black necktie with a formal outfit is going to look classy. In my opinion, the people who copped out of wearing a bow tie simply looked like shopkeepers or bookkeepers, as clueless as, say, wearing a tuxedo to a morning wedding. Even fanciful colors would have looked better than the funereal neckties.
I'm not sure I can respond directly at all to your question, yet I must speak up as a fond admirer of the fashions and personalities I see on European television, as presented in New York. Every night, I get my world news from the British/American BBC, the French "20 Heures," and the Italian RAI broadcasts. Even though I hardly speak a word of Italian, I also greatly enjoy watching Italian game shows and I love their fun, sophisticated hosts. Females on both the...
Hmmm. Maybe we're too close to the forest to see the trees. Scott mentioned in the Sartorialist that equestrian style was proving very influential and much in evidence in Italian design this season. Both of these pants under discussion look like modified jodhpurs to me. Which doesn't make me want to wear them without riding boots however.
Answers to that are hard to come by, as illustrated by a personal anecdote. A few years ago, as Chairman of a club that was being torn apart by dissatisfaction with my Vice Chairman, I had gone to the board room early and I was using a red felt tip pen to make some last minute notes on paper. I hoped I could resolve the issue amicably. When the board members arrived, they found me sitting perfectly still, my face partly hidden by my hair and buried in my hands with...
Further to my thoughts about Alan Flusser, I will never be able to afford another bespoke suit, but if I could, I would want one by Mr. Flusser, especially now that I have seen this unforgettable photograph of him. It confirms what I always suspected about his genius. My wish has grown from the many separate Alan Flusser items of striking originality that I've picked up (cheap at sales) over the years. While they've grounded my wardrobe in beautifully traditional...
I am rereading Charles Dickens's Bleak House and have to pass along his unforgettable description marking the entrance of Harold Skimpole. The description brought to mind, very favorably, the Sartorialist's photograph of Alan Flusser. As background, it is often said that Dickens based his Skimpole character upon his acquaintance Leigh Hunt. One of the Romantics, Hunt's best personal friend was Percy Bysshe Shelley, and among his acquaintances were Jeremy Bentham,...
I think you know all too well the anwer to that. Wearing your orange leather pants (which could be any shade in the spectrum) you'll just have to visit all the velvet dealers and try on what's available until one whispers to you that it's just right. With two items like you mention, they have to click. I also suspect you may already have selected the velvet blazer and are planning to blow us away with a picture. I can't wait.
Your question about scarves was made so much more interesting by the tandem post of your Rome photos. Thanks. Perhaps you'll jump over to Paris next, for nowhere are scarves more a staple of the wardrobe. In fact there's an old saying that "Every Frenchman knows 27 ways to tie a scarf." It's true, and I've filled my notebooks with sketches of Frenchmen in their scarves, just to try to capture the overall impression they give. Figuring out exactly how they do it is...
A crease would look graceless and pretentious. In fact, when storing my scarves, I carefully open them out full-width and fold them intentionally so they won't develop a crease.
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