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Posts by Knox

sorry, that's redundant-- "Plain weave panama." The problem is that ten years ago, we were spoiled with/by a number of good options. The Scabal Smart book was great.
Let's see how "Fresco Lite" turns out. I hope the time they're putting into this means there will be more than two shades of blue and three shades of grey. The fact that they bid farewell to Rangoon and turned attention to high supers Italian made cloth speaks volumes. Nobody's doing a really excellent plain weave panama nowadays. Nobody.
It's impossible to explain--the recipe of yarn, weave, and finish. If one ingredient is slightly off, the cloth is sub par. Those of us picked up some of the old Lesser 9.5/10 will be forever spoiled-- it really was that exceptional. Again, I don't have the words. There's plenty of worsted panama cloth out there. Mediocre goods. Frontier doesn't come close. As much as I liked the Lesser 9.5/10, I thought Rangoon was superior to the Lesser 8/9 oz. panama. The finish...
Maybe Harrison's will bring back the Lesser 9.5/10 panama. I hope so. I'd also welcome an 8/9 oz. worsted hopsack suiting cloth.
Of course heavier cloth drapes better. There's no great magic there. That simple logic aside, the white whale is a lighter, porous cloth that tailors and drapes well. I have no idea who decided to do away with the H. Lesser 9.5/10 book. It may be that, like the Rangoon, the yarn, weave, and finish were so unique--a one-off, historically speaking--that it simply cannot be replicated. Frontier is not a good substitute. Nor is Crispaire, or, now that I've taken a closer...
When I first heard about the LL Piuma, I allowed myself to hope for a 9/10 oz. panama. Best i recall, it's over 10 oz. It would be great to see an LL worsted in a true lightweight parama.
I suspect the changes at Minnis have a lot to do with the powers-that-be at Gladson Ltd., where flimsy (relatively speking) high supers Italian cloth reign. Antich has woven some of the better cloth I've seen/felt throughout the past decade, and once upon a time Minnis had Antich weaving the likes of Rangoon. The new English flannels book is good, but not necessarily a huge improvement.
Having just glanced at Scabal's pricing of their 2016 offering, I've decided to raise a fist and rage against the machine. Buy direct from mill when/where you can. So tired of "cloth merchants" deciding what's worthy of attention and then jacking up the cost. In recent years, the likes of the Lesser 9.5/10 panama and Minnis Rangoon have been eliminated. The latter firm has clearly turned attention to high supers, Italian woven crap. And no, I'm not going the LL...
Fresco Lite is on the way. 8/8.5 oz., I think.
Anybody know of a source for the old H. Lesser 9.5/10 oz. Lightweight Fine Worsted? Plain weave/panama. Thanks.
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