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Posts by Knox

Of course heavier cloth drapes better. There's no great magic there. That simple logic aside, the white whale is a lighter, porous cloth that tailors and drapes well. I have no idea who decided to do away with the H. Lesser 9.5/10 book. It may be that, like the Rangoon, the yarn, weave, and finish were so unique--a one-off, historically speaking--that it simply cannot be replicated. Frontier is not a good substitute. Nor is Crispaire, or, now that I've taken a closer...
When I first heard about the LL Piuma, I allowed myself to hope for a 9/10 oz. panama. Best i recall, it's over 10 oz. It would be great to see an LL worsted in a true lightweight parama.
I suspect the changes at Minnis have a lot to do with the powers-that-be at Gladson Ltd., where flimsy (relatively speking) high supers Italian cloth reign. Antich has woven some of the better cloth I've seen/felt throughout the past decade, and once upon a time Minnis had Antich weaving the likes of Rangoon. The new English flannels book is good, but not necessarily a huge improvement.
Having just glanced at Scabal's pricing of their 2016 offering, I've decided to raise a fist and rage against the machine. Buy direct from mill when/where you can. So tired of "cloth merchants" deciding what's worthy of attention and then jacking up the cost. In recent years, the likes of the Lesser 9.5/10 panama and Minnis Rangoon have been eliminated. The latter firm has clearly turned attention to high supers, Italian woven crap. And no, I'm not going the LL...
Fresco Lite is on the way. 8/8.5 oz., I think.
Anybody know of a source for the old H. Lesser 9.5/10 oz. Lightweight Fine Worsted? Plain weave/panama. Thanks.
There's a new Minnis Flannel book. 14.5 woollen flannel, as well as 11.5 oz. worsted flannel. Not necessarily an improvement, as the "old" flannel book was/is superb--if you like dry-handed, close felted woolen flannels (which I do). Calls to mind the Harrisons Archive Flannel and the heavier (LL/Alden inspired) Fox flannels. Not everybody's cup of tea. Seems as though the fashion world tends toward the softer, mushier flannels. There will be a new Fresco book. ...
AF /RAF Blue is tricky. The old Lesser 8/9 oz. included a couple of nice shades, but the new 8/9 misses the mark. "Blueberryish" is about right. Depends on the business setting. Better to go with a char(coal)-blue, I think. Especially for worsteds. The Minnis RAF Blue in the flannel book looks good, but it's sufficiently dark. The Fox char-navy in the 8/9 oz. flannel book is spot on.
Abacus is one of the better Smith books. Ever. Calls to mind the old H. Lesser 9.5/10 plain weave. I thought the greys in the Abacus book were long gone, never to be replenished. Is there an updated version of Abacus? edit: The Harrisons LBD person claims Frontier is similar to the Lesser 9.5/10. I disagree. Abacus is much closer to the Lesser, and Harrisons would do well to approximate the 9.5/10 yarn and weave it up into a few solids and stripes. Maybe the best...
Is anyone familiar with H. Lesser 8/9 oz. blue, #34108? Pics would be most welcome. Not available via Harrisons website.
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