or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:

Posts by WorkingClassDude

Yea, the old toe cap did look a little more 'crafted'. All my JPs have years of life in them based on how often and how hard I wear them, so I'll still be able to have both for quite a while. I think I'm done buying them for now... a foolhardy statement, but I'll always change my mind for a good design. But I have all the basics I need... black canvas (last gen), black leather (new gen), white canvas (new gen), black leather racearounds mids, blue boaters, a pair of old...
The eyelets aren't completely useless, it's just that the insert tends to block them. You can cut the insert a little bit to no overall detriment.... But converse should do that, not us... which reminds me the inserts are a little different. They are thinner, which I like (more interior room) but I don't like the material. They now are a bit more like styrofoam and less like the old foam rubber. The toe cap... seems fine to me... it's actually all flush now which looks...
Referring to the chucks in my post above, I guess it is kind of a dark blue. In bright sunlight though, it's a nice vibrant blue. Been crazy into Jack Purcells lately. Even busted out my JP boaters which I had put away for winter. Just yesterday bought JP white canvas. I'm not into white canvas at all, but I was willing to give them a chance. I'm hoping they'll look awesome after they are worn in and dirty. JPs have been redesigned, mostly which I'm OK with. The vent...
Small watches just seem so dainty to me. By small I mean going much farther south of 38mm. No, I'm not some macho douche who thinks you must be TOUGH and BIG WATCH MAKE MAN TOUGH! Because I hate that philosophy even more. But 40-42mm seems to be my wheelhouse, though I'm primarily into divers which tend to be a little bigger than most watches. I just measured a shrouded Seiko diver I have to find it's a whopping 48mm. Yet I don't consider it too large for me, and I'm at...
That's sharp. Very sharp.
Just a couple days ago, ordered Chuck lo-tops in the color A. Blue. I'm rarely attracted to bold colors in shoes but this shade of blue looked real nice on my screen. It's not navy, it's not regular blue, it's not a dark blue... It's like a medium blue but with a little bit of a green coming through. Anyone know what the "A" in A. Blue stands for?
I assumed they've been around as long as NATOs themselves...
To me with a leather nato is has to be a compromise between price and thickness. The C&B fall right in the perfect range... I've not worn it a whole ton and sweated in it much. I'm sure if you wore it daily it'd die in a year or less, but that's not how I wear it. For wearing it every once in a while, the C&B is holding up fine. Most of the rest of the leather Natos I've seen on the net, they are too thick and too expensive. And a lot of them seem to have Zulu rings. I...
I have a Seiko Black Monster (from 2010 I think) and it also lost it's solid-click action between adjusting the date and time. Different movement though to the Blue Spark. It had the perfect double-click feel for several months, but I moved on to other watches and the Monster got drawered for a while. And after I started wearing it again, I noticed that the clicky feel was gone, and setting stuff now has a little trick to it. It's a minor inconvenience, it's not the end...
Not really... most materials, when speaking of rubber, leather, cloth, nylon, etc (just not metal bracelets obviously) should have plenty of 'squish factor' to them... put in the 18mm spring bar, put one of the tips into the lug on the watch, and squish the band and spring bar at the opposite side and finish putting on the spring bar. Only other thing I can think of is take some teeny tiny scissors and MAYBE trim a tiny bit of the width off the strap where the spring bar...
New Posts  All Forums: