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Posts by Blackhood

One word two meanings. Originally a blazer was "emblazoned" with club/college colours, or regimental buttons. They are loud, bright and wonderful with a boater at Henley or Lords. The navy blazer is an evolution (devolution?) of the same garment in plain blue with gold buttons. Both garments can be correctly called a blazer. The coat in the image is a sports coat.
Are boots shoes though?
I certainly never came across a customer who would admit to posting on SF. I always found that a little reassuring. This place is great for getting people interested in suits, but if 100% of SR trade was SF based then the whole place would collapse in a matter of months.
Shit just got real.
The point I'm making is that knowing a tailors EBIT means bugger all to the pricing of the garment. 2014: I earn £90,000 and my suit costs £3,000 that is 3.3% of my wealth on a suit 1914: I earn £9,000 and my suit costs £200 that is 2.2% of my wealth on a suit 1850: I earn £90 and my suit cost £1 that is 1.1% of my wealth on a suit Thus you have the comparison of how expensive a suit used to be from an SR tailor. Adding in taxes and fees muddies the waters.
You wont be able to make that comparison at all. Ok, nowdays you can pick up a transcontinental flight for $1000 and 14 Hours. In 1850 a customer had a six week journey from northern France, let alone the USA. Even if you drag your pricing right the way forward to a customer jumping on board the Titanic, the costs of the journey were literally incomparable. The capacity to export goods to avoid tax is basically impossible to take into account. Hell, even inflation in...
I'm not sure you're right; VAT may not go into the tailor's pocket, but it certainly comes out of mine. When using inflation judged by average income, you end up looking at the cost of a suit in real money, to the customer.You can say with certainty that profit margins have fallen simply because in 1850 you didn't actually pay your staff unless they were important. Almost every other job was done by an apprentice who basically worked for free.
Richard James Mayfair, not the bespoke operation across the road. Genuinely terrible fused RTW suits made mostly for the House of Fraser and John Lewis markets.
You're a cretin.
Part of the problem in my experience is the cost of the risk. Buying an SR firm is tough, and there are a finite number left. They run on tight margins (for clothing makers, at least), and many of them are hundreds of years old.Its one thing to spend £10m buying a firm and another £5m making a sensible effort at RTW (shops in proper places like Paris, Hong Kong & New York), and losing it because you didn't do a good job. The only person who wants to make this stuff work...
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