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Posts by Blackhood

If you right-click and select "open in new tab" they can be read properly.
There was a nice article in The Rake a few months ago. I've scanned it in, but if I'm guilty of some horrible rights-infringement then someone let me know.
I've been itching for a new flannel. The only one in my rotation is an impulse buy bespoke DB in navy with a chunky white chalk stripe. Full-on Al Capone
Both I think. The new collection is only about two weeks old, and also they had a massive fire in one of the New York stores which I'm assuming had a big impact on inventory. They wont start selling off shirts cheap when their supply chain is rocky.
Thats probably a geographic thing. I'm in the tailoring business, in a rural area. In fact, I was in the pub last night and counted at least six plusfours. Even in the heart of Cambridge you'll see suits in equal numbers to academic gowns and mortar boards.
Why do you want to know? From a purely stylistic PoV then classic menswear is something you could wear in 1950, 1960, 1970, 1980 and 1990 without people shooting at you for being a time-traveler. Contemporary Menswear something you could wear in 1950, 1960, 1970, 1980 and 1990 with people shooting at you for being a time-traveler.
By the way, Rory your videos are cracking. Very well done and you come across really well. You make a great ambassador for bespoke.
Listen to Rory, he knows what he's talking about. I don't know what the conversion rate is between SG$, USD and GBP is, but 2,000 in the latter two is a great deal of money for an OTR garment. You mentioned Kiton; to give you an idea of bespoke vs brand-name cost, an overcoat from them is about £5,500 ($7,750) whereas a bespoke one from a Savile Row maker will run about £3500. When dealing with brands you pay a significant premium for their Name. I know in China there is...
Funnily enough I have a tan suit, and not a brown, but I'd much prefer a brown one. Tan is of limited use in a formal environment; I certainly couldn't stroll into the office in tan because it has too much of a vacation vibe. The brown would get a few odd looks, but ultimately its more conservative [read darker] look means I'd put more mileage on it. As it stands my tan is very much for summer garden parties and formal dining when on holiday.
I'm glad this thread has reared its head; it contains a lesson that is so rarely voiced - that great tailoring isn't just about fit but proportion. A good fit might be close but not tight, but good proportion has so much more impact on the overall aesthetic and explains why good bespoke is that much more expensive. A Master Tailor can rarely cut straighter, sew faster or press more firmly than one with 5, 10 or 15 years training, but he understands how the narrowness of...
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