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Posts by Blackhood

Shit just got real.
The point I'm making is that knowing a tailors EBIT means bugger all to the pricing of the garment. 2014: I earn £90,000 and my suit costs £3,000 that is 3.3% of my wealth on a suit 1914: I earn £9,000 and my suit costs £200 that is 2.2% of my wealth on a suit 1850: I earn £90 and my suit cost £1 that is 1.1% of my wealth on a suit Thus you have the comparison of how expensive a suit used to be from an SR tailor. Adding in taxes and fees muddies the waters.
You wont be able to make that comparison at all. Ok, nowdays you can pick up a transcontinental flight for $1000 and 14 Hours. In 1850 a customer had a six week journey from northern France, let alone the USA. Even if you drag your pricing right the way forward to a customer jumping on board the Titanic, the costs of the journey were literally incomparable. The capacity to export goods to avoid tax is basically impossible to take into account. Hell, even inflation in...
I'm not sure you're right; VAT may not go into the tailor's pocket, but it certainly comes out of mine. When using inflation judged by average income, you end up looking at the cost of a suit in real money, to the customer.You can say with certainty that profit margins have fallen simply because in 1850 you didn't actually pay your staff unless they were important. Almost every other job was done by an apprentice who basically worked for free.
Richard James Mayfair, not the bespoke operation across the road. Genuinely terrible fused RTW suits made mostly for the House of Fraser and John Lewis markets.
You're a cretin.
Part of the problem in my experience is the cost of the risk. Buying an SR firm is tough, and there are a finite number left. They run on tight margins (for clothing makers, at least), and many of them are hundreds of years old.Its one thing to spend £10m buying a firm and another £5m making a sensible effort at RTW (shops in proper places like Paris, Hong Kong & New York), and losing it because you didn't do a good job. The only person who wants to make this stuff work...
It is/has. Unfortunately the way the brand is structured (they also own Richard James) it isn't really built for expansion. The quality is very high for the money, and I have many suits from them at the £500 mark that out-rank stuff like Ralph Lauren Purple Label (which they produced for a time), but it would take a miracle for them to role out a genuine retail presence.
Inexperience is always crippling; your advantage is that you're old enough and bright enough to turn an entry level job into something much more significant very quickly. You may have to suck it up and enter in a position that should be bellow you, and basically make it your mission to prove your chops so fast that they can't afford not to promote you. In terms of the caring thing; just make sure you sell it. Ok you didn't take a salary, but you essentially managed and...
I've always found the biggest challenge with a "drop 10" client is they either want to show off their fitness, in which case you have to talk them out of an ill-proportioned result, or they want to hide it all together and you have to give shape to an empty sack. Looks like you've got that balance spot on, masculine without either of the above issues.
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