^It may have been customs.
Thanks for the advice in the thread. I visited the Suit Supply in DC and was impressed by what I tried on. Their slimmer fits fit me off-the-rack, without having to take in the waist. I had the opportunity to buy the JCrew Ludlow for half off though, so I bought that instead.
I noticed that I SS run large for me. I'm a 36R in their Napoli and London fits, but a 38R in Ludlow.