Not sure of the rules but how I would play it, with what I currently have:
- grey pants --> black leather wingtip blucher
- tan pants --> dark brown suede chukka
Honorable mention is a blue suede blucher, for either.
Agreed. A white shirt, black captoe oxfords and dark unicolor socks (charcoal or navy) are the usual for me when wearing a suit. So it's just picking a suit, tie and square if I'm wearing one.I admit I'm a pretty conservative dresser. Though in my work environment, just wearing a suit and tie does stand out a bit as it is.
My preference is also for ties with a width of 3.5 inches. In general I avoid ties that are thinner. I don't think they are rare, exactly, but they do share the market space with thinner ties.
Vanda makes ties in that width.
I have a brown suit which I looooooove. I almost always wear a pair of burgundy/oxblood cordovan shoes with it (Carmina's version of Cordovan #8, I guess, a very dark oxblood.) I feel that even brown shoes in a different shade doesn't look as nice. Not sure how that flies at a wedding but that's what I would wear.
I'd go with a dark navy tie. Looks good with brown.
Suede chukkas are my favorite type of casual shoe. If I only had 2 shoe styles available to me, it would be a black captoe oxford for suits, and a brown suede chukka for everything else.
I like mine unlined - they feel great and somehow add to the casual look/feel.
I have the Crockett & Jones unlined chukkas in snuff and dark brown. If I had to choose between them I would pick the dark brown. They go with everything.
I would go with a double breasted suit in midnight blue in the summer material of your choice - linen, mohair, fresco, cotton - but that's as far as I would take a nod to a true tuxedo. I wouldn't use a separate fabric for the lapels or have a stripe on the trousers, etc. You want to look formal but not come off as wearing a parody of a tuxedo IMHO.