Dege & Skinner
Although Gieves are military tailors, they do not have a set house style but have a similar style to Poole. They can do a military cut, if requested.
As mentioned above M&M and W&J are military tailors; however, Huntsman are not in the same bracket.
Simple task, walk down Jermyn Street and look at the shoe shoes and then go look at Oliver Sweeney shoes, you will change your own mind - Barkers, Church's, both Crockett & Jones shops, Edward Green, Foster & son, John Lobb and Tricker's.
Church's sold shoes in correct grain before the Prada take-over (I have a pair)Many shoes had and have the options of calf or polished binder without an upcharge for the former - people are not forced to stick with corrected grainJust because a leather is correct grain does not make it crapA few years ago I was spoking with Church's about making four mto shoes in their Royal Collection and making them without a medallion pattern on all the shoes. Although they had to...
On Saturday I collected a pair of C&J shoes, I gave Kokos for a full resole - great job, channelled soles and no silly waiting times either. C&J had quoted £16 more and a much longer waiting time, if I thought the shoes could require a second full resole I would have sent them to C&J.
I did get a local clobber resole two pair of shoes for £30 each; never again, I learnt my lesson.
Oliver Sweeney: crap leather, crap construction and if it is raining, best to leave them indoors.
I cannot comment on the current quality of JW shoes; however, the ones I purchased in 2006 were decent quality.
By formal, do you mean the British view (i.e. black tie) or American (i.e. work wear)?Whatever view it is, wear what you like- braces are not supposed to be seen; however, on the chance that they may be seen, keep it simple (like plain white).TM Lewin have decent braces £25-30, I think they are made by Albert Thurston but not to the same quality as 'Albert Thurston' branded braces.
I will be in central London in 3/4 weeks time, will check up on the shop again to see their new stock; the only thing that did tempt me was the smoking jacket (did not check price) but I am always tempted when I see a nice smoking jacket.