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Posts by Son Of Saphir

Me keep six large shelf of shoe in big dark room. Here one of many shelf here Me used to have house full of many many pair with 12 big shelf, but me give shoe to many people. Man take picture for me, me not know how.
me make changes to post above about goiser and reverse welt and normal hand welt shoe.it make more sense now.me re read post above and correct some mistake in writing.me say feather is not a ridge,do not know why l said that.A feather IS a ridge.True.Feather needs to be carved out.Holdfast is attached.Both have same function but they created different.me change post above."Goiser" and "norwegian welted" is same but Vass do little variation with extra stitch through welt...
No need to hide stitches.Like norwegian picture,it make no sense to put feather further in with turned out upper. "Goiser" and "norwegian welted" same.Vass do Goiser little different from "norwegian welted" picture because extra stitch attached welt to mid sole but it still same thing.Feather is the holdfast or a ridge,.see above post hereNorvegese can use no feather or it can use outside feather.neverno feather or outside feather.if norvegese like norwegian diagram it...
Yes.Yes.Never shaves flat for Bentivegna.Reverse welted does get shaved flat.Look like some maker do it different way.Many maker still gem lining under shoe.lt different way again.Could be to keep water out better so it not collect between welt.Me think welt on top look more good.lt could be possible.Veldtschoen construction is more for work boot and casual shoe so it make sense
No sorry,it not make resole more easy,it make inseaming more easy if stitch to insole get damage.Re stitch to feather more easy.Re stitch to no feather can be more hard to put through old holes in insole because bristle need more curve motion and it can be more hard to put through.lf awl needed to re open hole the insole can also get damaged and lose it strongness.Re stitch to no feather take more skill to do.
me think it done this way so the wood peg construction not get ruined,this very easy to ruin if leather still wet and wood peg not have time to swell.If shoe maker stitch welt to mid and outsoles after doing the wood peg it might cause it to get loose.Me think lt also hard to keep leather wet after maker let the wood peg construction dry,this mean stitching the outside of welt very very hard.That why me think man not do it.It only thing that make sense yes.
shoe construction guidegoiser/reverse welt- upper join to welt and cut- L welt on out side- always a feathernormal hand welted shoe- upper join to welt and cut- normal flat welt- can use a feather on edge or inside- not always use feathernorvegese- out turned upper- flat bonwelt- can be made with feather (only on edge but never in same area as goiser/reverse welt shoe)- can be made with no feather(some maker do Norwegian struction same as Norvegese)bentivegna- out turned...
we be frends forever, yes!
you have face that look like me,look!
ah yes,you are right.Both norvegese and bentivegna can be done with feather moved to the edge to allow for out turn of upper,so norwegian can also be norvegese.Hmmm.Interesting how some maker make norwegian and norvegese different and other maker do it same way.Yes.Me have maker and me show him feather,he never see it before.He very good at poking awl through side of half of insole.Me like feather better,inseaming a new insole made more easy if inseam or insole get damage.
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