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Posts by J. Cogburn

The DB evolved from the frock coat, which historically was more formal than the single-breasted lounge jacket that helped pushed the frock coat off the market once and for all. A DB dinner jacket is less formal than a SB model for reasons that are unclear to me, but all seem to agree on the point. Poll 1,000 people and you will find that most believe that the DB is dressier than a SB (that is, one is more "dressed-up" in a DB than a SB). That's all I said. Don't...
If Clark Gable jumped off a cliff, would you do likewise? A button-down is the most casual business shirt one might wear. A DB is the dressiest coat that one might wear. Combine them if you like but be careful. While combos like that can succeed wonderfully, they are very easy to screw up ... you don't want to look like some clueless farmer from Wichita. In this particular case, I don't think a BD adds anything to a DB or enhances it in any way. It just makes you...
Quote: some Americans think of them as either fussy or supercilious. Yeah, well, some Americans think ties are fussy and supercilious. What are we, a nation of farmers? "First they came for the double-breasted coats, but I said nothing because I wore single breasted. Then they came for the tweed, but I said nothing because I wore worsted. Then they came for the shoes, but by then, none were left to come to my defense ...." Forgot where I...
FNB said: Quote: I love double breasted suits. I only have ten or so. I would make up almost all my suits double breasted but they aren't always practical for what I need them for. When aren't they practical relative to a single breasted? When doing a guest appearance on Hee-Haw? What?
Should one embrace or dismiss a mignight blue suit as part of one's weekly rotation at the office? My usual go-to sources seem to disagree. Will Boehlke includes the midnight blue as one of six suits in his ideal basic (starter) wardrobe. Manton, on the other hand, tells Will that "A midnight blue lounge suit is elegant, but somewhat impractical -- not really right for business day wear." I would like to include the midnight blue because it allows one to kill two birds...
I'm not so sure Foxx. "Don't be in a rush to look old" and "dress cool" is too easily translated into "don't be in a rush to leave the herd" and "dress like all of the other 20-somethings." The 20-something guys in my office who seem to get credited by the 20-something girls for dressing in a trendy and cool kind of way look like slovenly soldiers of the mafia. And they all look the same; dark metallic shirts, garish $15 dollar metallic ties, square-toed pilgrim shoes,...
Got these English slippers from the wife for Christmas. Merchant: Ben Silver. Love 'em.
Quote: Brummel wasn't making a timeless pronouncement on style to be etched on stone tablets and passed down to future generations; he was reacting against the garishness of the style of his contemporaries by championing a simpler, somewhat minimalistic style. This had the added bonus of creating a fashion terrain where he could compete without needing to invest as much as he would have had the old ornate fashion remained in vogue. Today, of course,...
I tend to agree with you, Mr. Bunny, which is why I find that the Brummullian quotation at issue is quite problematic ... at least, in the context in which it has often been marshalled. By the way, I quite agree with your take on dandyism in general. Nice essay.
Quote: I recall smoking a cigar on the Kowloon waterfront surrounded by literally hundreds of mainland Chinese who were asking for my autograph as they had never seen someone dressed like me in the flesh. Nonetheless, I would not have drawn a second glance at the Penn Club in Manhattan or the Wolseley in London. Was I well dressed? I believe so. One's native dress has always been correct. The rest is just a matter of self-confidence. Analagous...
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