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Posts by J. Cogburn

Quote: Not everything needs to be painfully middle of the road. "Classic style," in terms of RTW, is a myth. That's for sure. Even Brooks Brothers and Paul Stewart are moving with little resistance with the fashion tides now. Classic style, however, is certainly not middle of the road (painfully or otherwise). Since nothing is classical style anymore, it is now the outlier style; the cloth of rebellion; the look of danger!
If I recall correctly, Alan Flusser argues that the lapels should cover about half of the space between the coat's shoulder and the inside line of the lapel. Casual conversation with a couple of cutters over the recent past suggests that Flusser's not arguing anything new or particularly controversial. So if the above is correct, it would seem that these lapels are way to skinny. The coat lacks balance. No-harm-no-foul if you like skinny lapels and don't care...
I agree with you Furo. You misunderstand me. I am not wondering why people pay $6k for Brioni - or why Brioni prices at that level. What I am wondering is whether anyone who is fairly sophisticated about clothing would prefer to pay $6k for an OTR Brioni rather than for a custom made suit from Saville Row (or the equivalent thereto).
Are you kidding me? Google "tailor" and "Singapore." Plenty of them advertise traveling schedules. Despite your best efforts to start a fight, I am not arguing with you. Re-read the initial post. I said I liked the Brioni but couldn't think of a good reason to spend $6k on an OTR suit. I then asked for anyone who might offer a case for the Brioni. You weighed-in. Great. No need to start throwing haymakers. I don't disagree with you; if you don't know what...
So in sum, bespoken is for fools, crazy gamblers, or tailors buying from tailors? If you don't mind, I'm curious; who has delivered such a disappointing set of suits to you? And how much of it was due to your poor choices regarding fabric versus their poor tailoring/design skills? I would be interested in a show of hands amongst the wardrobe blessed around here. If you had $6k to spend on a suit, would you spend it on a Brioni or would you spend it on a bespoken...
Aside from sleeve length issues, were you pleased with the suit you got? And relative to the present discussion, how might you compare it to a Brioni as far as quality of make?
True dat. But disasters from real firms or traveling Asians?
Go to "A Suitable Wardrobe" blog and query "business." You will find many useful and relevant posts regarding business attire. Then query "wardrobe" and you will get good advice regarding what to buy. All for free. Then buy Flusser.
Re the idiot Nordstrom book, this passage is typical. From the "Ask the Nordstrom Tailor" section on p.129: Quote: Question - "Mixing a Shirt and tie patterns is a challenge. Is there a simple rule? Answer - Think of it this way: One should always win [I think this is a typo and they meant to say "wear," but who knows?] - either a bold tie or a bold shirt. When in doubt, let your tie take center stage. Of course, they sell Robert Talbott ties, so...
Read this.
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