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Posts by J. Cogburn

I’ve noticed that when people post their bespoken work here, the more striking the silhouette, the more props they get. Of course, the level of dissent moves up a bit with the drama of the suit’s cut, but I sense that there are more complaints about a suit’s cut being boring, uninteresting, or uninspired than there are complaints about a suit’s silhouette being too dramatic. I certainly understand why the dramatic look gets the love. If you’re going to spend $4k+ on a...
There are several reasons I check bags: 1. Fully booked flights mean that you're lucky to get an overhead bin these days unless you are determined to do the line standing thing for 20 minutes or so at the gate. And if you're on a tight connecting flight, you're probably doomed. If you don't get that bin, you lose your leg room or have to check anyway. 2. The one quart bag for toiletries thing is murder. Hard to fit everything in the stupid bag, many of the things I...
The Mission: Identify the ideal piece of luggage that can accommodate 3 suits and five days worth of business travel. Would be nice to keep this under $500. Question 1: Should I go with a garment bag or a suitcase? Question 2: What is the best make and model of the above for my purpose? The Samsonite wheeled garment bag / suitcase that I presently have is simply not long enough to accommodate by suits, which is deeply annoying. And I travel a lot. Must...
Of course. But if I want to buy a 10-12 oz. marine blue nailhead, for instance, I'm going to have lots of cloth companies to choose from. In a situation like this, I'm going to take the tailor's advice about which is the better cloth.
OK, 19 pages of posts is about a dozen pages too many for me. But for what it's worth, I was visiting William Field today in Georgetown (DC). He's the best bespoke tailor in the city (which admittedly isn't saying much) and pretty well regarded by those who've used him. He has done Presidents and routinely works for Senators, diplomats, and others used to Savile Row work and is frequently reported to be the equal of many of the better cutters there. Last time I was...
The Golden Fleece line usually retails for $2k - $2.5k. Twice as expensive as the Madisons. They do have a website you know. You may want to visit it.
Quote: Perhaps you could post some pictures with you wearing the tie. I'd like to see the check on check especially. I have no idea what AA/esky is but Im doubtful. OK, that would be a nice project. We can vote on the best combo. Won't be for a while though. I'm on the road for business at the moment. The sketch that inspired my interested in check-on-check can be found by scrolling three-quarters of the way down or so in this London Lounge post. ...
Quote: Nothing tones a tie down more than a white shirt and a dark, solid suit. I tend to disagree. Quiet neutrals around a loud tie draws the eye toward ... the loud tie. It's like white walls in art gallery. If the idea is to say, "hey - check out my cool tie!" then the white shirt, grey suit will certainly do that. Hence, it accentuates the tie, it doesn't tone it down. Quote: Check on a check shirt will be terribly ugly. Plain...
This Drakes tie I just got in the mail last week is the bomb. But I worry that it's a bit much for a plain mid-grey or charcoal grey suit and solid white shirt. I suspect that I need a patterned shirt to tone it down. I am inclined towards a checked shirt. Conventional wisdom would suggest a small check. If so, how small? And what about color? Should I go for a light grey check, a black check, or throw in a harmonizing color like a light blue check? A striped...
I have blue & ecru and maroon & silver gingham ties, both of which look pretty much like this. What sort of patterned shirt can I wear with these ties? An equally small pattern on the shirt would likely hurt my eyes. That suggests a larger pattern is in order. But what? And if I wanted to triple-pattern with a moderately spaced chalk stripe suit, what suggestions might you have? Or should one abandon all hopes of patterned shirts with these sorts of ties?
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