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Posts by J. Cogburn

Worry not - your Tom Fords are fully canvassed, just like a bespoke suit. And Ford is all about the muscular upper-body look (the inverted triangle) so you're unlikely to have done much better on that front by going bespoke.
Agree. There was a bespoke tailoring website a couple of years ago (which one escapes me at the moment) which cut-up a Tom Ford suit to examine the construction. The verdict - the best RTW suit the man had ever seen and the equal in many ways of a bespoke.I understand, however, that the legendary Edward Sexton in London has a house style that's not too far from Tom Ford's (in fact, he's been cited occasionally as claiming - without much rancor - that Ford ripped off...
Agree completely. I have nearly a dozen excellent bespoke suits and odd jackets but find that the Brooks Brothers Madison line and Ralph Lauren's Black Label fits me wonderfully, especially after my bespoke tailor (who, blessedly, does alterations) tweaks them a bit.The downsides with ready-to-wear are you don't get the exact style you may like (I go for a hard three-button, double vented, Poole-style jacket and relatively high waisted, double pleated trousers with side...
Pin stripe suits are associated with business. They look great, but ... They are out of place after hours. You'd be better off - if you have the option - wearing a different suit. Solid black or navy, white shirt (almost mandatory at night - looks better than anything else), and a solid or subtly patterned dark tie.
Contemplating a solid with subtle texture (say, a pick & pick). I've seen a charcoal brown at my tailor's in a suit he was doing up for a client. It was more grey than brown. In fact, it was hard to detect the brown unless it was in the sun and contrasted with a true grey. But ... I'm sure there are different tones one can choose that highlight the brown a bit more.
Thinking about commissioning one for my fall rotation. One would think it would work for me (silver/grey hair, well tanned complexion), but one rarely if ever sees this color in the wild and the color is seldom discussed here.
For what it's worth, I recently asked my tailor - the sainted William Field - what he thought the best-made OTR suit might be. "Oxford" he said, but noted that even so, he wasn't much of a fan of Oxford's jacket cut. Then I asked him - quality of construction aside - what he thought the best styled OTR suit might be in his eyes. "Ralph Lauren Black Label" he said without hesitation.
William Fox & Co. - a block from the White House - sells some of the best OTR classic menswear available in the U.S.; Samuelsohn suits, Drakes ties, Bill's Khakis, Hertling trousers, Great Scottish sweaters, and Hilditch & Keys shirts for instance. While I love the place, they don't seem to do that much business from what I can tell. Only a few employees, a small store front, small but tightly edited inventory, and they've been around forever. Why haven't they grabbed...
Or so I'm told it was about 50 years ago. Which was more typical; mid-grey or a charcoal grey? Tradition aside, which of those two options looks better?
$3,400 for a two-piece suit with your standard cloth; more if you're using Lessers or other more exensive fabric (such as the mohair Tonik). Odd-jackets are around $2,400. At least, those are the rices I've been paying of late.
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