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Posts by J. Cogburn

Contemplating a solid with subtle texture (say, a pick & pick). I've seen a charcoal brown at my tailor's in a suit he was doing up for a client. It was more grey than brown. In fact, it was hard to detect the brown unless it was in the sun and contrasted with a true grey. But ... I'm sure there are different tones one can choose that highlight the brown a bit more.
Thinking about commissioning one for my fall rotation. One would think it would work for me (silver/grey hair, well tanned complexion), but one rarely if ever sees this color in the wild and the color is seldom discussed here.
For what it's worth, I recently asked my tailor - the sainted William Field - what he thought the best-made OTR suit might be. "Oxford" he said, but noted that even so, he wasn't much of a fan of Oxford's jacket cut. Then I asked him - quality of construction aside - what he thought the best styled OTR suit might be in his eyes. "Ralph Lauren Black Label" he said without hesitation.
William Fox & Co. - a block from the White House - sells some of the best OTR classic menswear available in the U.S.; Samuelsohn suits, Drakes ties, Bill's Khakis, Hertling trousers, Great Scottish sweaters, and Hilditch & Keys shirts for instance. While I love the place, they don't seem to do that much business from what I can tell. Only a few employees, a small store front, small but tightly edited inventory, and they've been around forever. Why haven't they grabbed...
Or so I'm told it was about 50 years ago. Which was more typical; mid-grey or a charcoal grey? Tradition aside, which of those two options looks better?
$3,400 for a two-piece suit with your standard cloth; more if you're using Lessers or other more exensive fabric (such as the mohair Tonik). Odd-jackets are around $2,400. At least, those are the rices I've been paying of late.
Congrats on your weight loss! I've been there. Every ten pounds you lose reduces your suit size by one (on average). You can lose about 2 1/2 suit sizes before your garment is worthless. Within that range, however, a good tailor can keep you looking OK. My advice is don't spend money on suits during your weight loss. Your garments will only last 2-3 months. Keep one charcoal grey and one navy blue from some place like J.A. Banks in your closet at all times .... But...
I have worn RL, Lacoste, Kent Wang, and Olebar Brown. The OLs are the best in class - by a mile! If you can swallow spending $250 for a polo (and I say you should; spend whatever it takes and that you can afford to ave the best of whatever you wear), then get the OLs - now.
Several years ago, I lost 75 pounds and had to rebuild my wardrobe from scratch. I live in Washington, DC and am happy to have a “white collar,” non-profit job that requires a suit four days a week (no need for one on “Casual Friday”). I do a fair amount of business travel and since I may get called-on to do a TV appearance with only a few hours notice, I need to dress accordingly. Hence, I’ve had a chance to do in real life what so many of you fantasize about on this...
Seems to me that if you plan on wearing a sweater under your hypothesized tweed odd jacket, you should account for that when you're first measured for the thing. How many of you guys do that? I constantly find that coats tailored without that consideration never work very well if at all with sweaters. But ... If you're going to wear that " sweater-ized coat" without a sweater, it may well be Ryan-esque on you. My problem is that I am only likely to wear a sweater under...
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