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Posts by J. Cogburn

Good news; some serious weight lifting and a disciplined diet has recently moved me to a 42" jacket size and a 32" waist. Bad news; buying off the rack is now problematic. When I go bespoke, of course, that's not a problem, but alas, I can't go bespoke all the time. And continued weight lifting is likely to increase that 10" drop to 12" before the year is out. The issue came up yesterday when trying on a Ralph Lauren Black Label suit (my preferred off the wrack rig). ...
The setting; dinner and drinks in a classic double-breasted navy blazer at a posh resort outside of LA. Default rule is brown shoe, but this is after 6:00, so the black shoe rule is also there. What's the right call per Mantonian-esque rules?
Not buying it.
Disagree on these points. The taller the crown, the more formal the hat. Tallish crowns go with suits but look discordant with casual clothes. Same goes for brim size (save for Panamas, where wider is always better given the function of providing shade in the summer).Hats which match your outwear (overcoat or, if you're not wearing an overcoat, your suit coat) rarely look very good. Harmonize, don't match.
Over at Mr. Porter, they've got a feature today discussing the various ways one can wear a navy blazer. Most of their looks are street style. I'm OK with that and I think their five different examples are, in general, fine. But ... the navy blazer they use in their feature isn't really a blazer. Because it lacks metal buttons, it's actually a navy blue odd jacket. Nothing wrong with that. But this suggests a question - can one wear a classic navy blazer (say, a...
I don't have any experience with Suit Supply or Satori and have never seen them in the wild, but I do know Brooks. When you can get the 1818s on sale, they are a solid buy in that price range. The key here is fit. Post a pic in the Milano. If the fit is good, you're gold ... Don't worry about the roads not taken at that price range.
The site works great on a computer. He probably had it designed before iPads took over and screwed up all the over-the-top bells and whistles.Seriously, if I ever get to London, I'm seeing Sexton for a suit. One of the greatest - if not THE greatest - bespoke tailors alive today and I quite like his style.
Worry not - your Tom Fords are fully canvassed, just like a bespoke suit. And Ford is all about the muscular upper-body look (the inverted triangle) so you're unlikely to have done much better on that front by going bespoke.
Agree. There was a bespoke tailoring website a couple of years ago (which one escapes me at the moment) which cut-up a Tom Ford suit to examine the construction. The verdict - the best RTW suit the man had ever seen and the equal in many ways of a bespoke.I understand, however, that the legendary Edward Sexton in London has a house style that's not too far from Tom Ford's (in fact, he's been cited occasionally as claiming - without much rancor - that Ford ripped off...
Agree completely. I have nearly a dozen excellent bespoke suits and odd jackets but find that the Brooks Brothers Madison line and Ralph Lauren's Black Label fits me wonderfully, especially after my bespoke tailor (who, blessedly, does alterations) tweaks them a bit.The downsides with ready-to-wear are you don't get the exact style you may like (I go for a hard three-button, double vented, Poole-style jacket and relatively high waisted, double pleated trousers with side...
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