I don't object to a close-cut suit, but if it bunches up in certain places and pulls in others when someone is standing still that's simply a poor fit.And is it still considered a poor fit when the jacket doesn't cover the rear?
Good tailoring was a priority for the costume designer. She chose fashion over fit. The chest bows out, the sleeves and the waist area have extensive creasing and the jacket doesn't cover his rear. Those elements of poor fit are fashionable, but there's no excuse for the collar standing away.And for the cuff mentioned above, I wrote an article about the cuff here: http://thesuitsofjamesbond.com/?p=5I prefer to use Frank Foster's name of Cocktail Cuff.
Great advice, but you forgot to mention that a turn-down collar is a must. Rental shops will not be able to do a proper wing collar, and wing-collar shirts should never have pleats nor should they be worn with a cummerbund.
I thought he looked pretty good in most of the Quantum of Solace suits. They were only slightly too tight and the trouser rise was a little too low. But Skyfall took the fit to an extreme and didn't work for him nor would it work for anyone else.
The dinner jacket worn in Skyfall was not the same as at the premiere. The one in the film was actually very close to midnight blue, really just a dark navy, and it was worn with matching trousers. The textured, mid-blue dinner jacket was thankfully not in the film. Still, it was too short as well.
I can't imagine there would be any benefit to getting a cotton/wool blend over 10% wool. With cotton it will be less wrinkle-resistent, won't wear neither as warm nor as cool as all wool, and it won't be as durable. I can only imagine it might be cheaper, though if it's a good quality it will hardly be cheaper. There's no good reason for it.
He has clearly bulked up more now than he did in QoS. In Casino Royale I think he had been training longer so he was probably already fairly muscular when he was fitted. The Falconer suit was modified for Craig. I don't know if he made it before, but I had only seen the Falconer suit in a button 2 whilst Craig's suits are all button 3. And judging from Colin Firth's suits in A Single Man, the Falconer is meant to fit at least with a proper length.
I completely agree. The positive reactions I've heard to the clothes say the tight fit is good because it accentuates Craig's muscular build. But doing so sacrifices all elegance. I've heard that Ford designed these suits for the film, though I'm sure at the direction of the film's costume designer. The perfectionist that Tom Ford is makes me really question his involvement, because a fit with so many creases and really poor drape is against what he believes in. It's the...
Yes, that is Tom Ford. And just as much the work of costume designer Jany Temime. It's the most Tom Ford-looking piece in the film, since the lapels are sufficiently wide (though still not wide by conventional standards) and I believe the trousers have pleats. Still, the jacket length and button stance need to come down an inch and the jacket is much too tight overall. Ford likes a close cut, but still a neat cut. This cut is the decision of Temime, not Ford. Just look at...