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Posts by Matt S

You can press the jacket so the lapel doesn't fold flat. But you can't change where the lapel rolls just by pressing. The collar needs to be altered for that.
I know the traditional sharkskin (pick-and-pick), which is an even twill weave that alternates black (or coloured) and white yarns in both the warp and weft. But what is the shiny sharkskin exactly? Is it the same weave, just in mohair or polyester? I have a traditional sharkskin suit in all wool and it isn't shiny at all.
They are not formal enough with a business suit. They are okay with tweed suits and with sports coats, but I'm I'm going to wear something between my jacket and shirt I prefer a waistcoat. A jumper is too bulky.If your "belly zone" shows below your jacket that's another problem. It means your trousers need a higher rise or your jacket's button stance is too high. Nothing should be showing there.
I really like the double FIH because it still has the asymmetrical shape but is more secure than the FIH. It never slips!
The weejuns would be my choice. Driving shoes are just too casual for any type of suit IMO and oxfords are too formal. Tassel loafers could work too. Personally I'd wear black monk shoes.
Chalkstripes don't dress down very well. I'm not sure a salmon-coloured shirt would work (not really sure what it goes with), but pink and lilac are nice with navy. But pretty much anything that I can think of to go with that suit would be a business look. For shirts: solids, end-on-ends or narrow stripes (narrower than a bengal stripe). Checked shirts and striped suits don't really match. If you want to wear a knitted tie with it, you can. James Bond did:...
What you have there is a classic cold-weather business suit. It's a bit less formal than a ropestripe suit, but not much below. The blue end-on-end shirt in that picture is perfect with that suit. Knitted ties don't go well with business suits to me, but if you'd like something similar get a navy grenadine tie. Grenadine ties are much more formal and are better with a chalkstripe suit. I'm fine with a navy tie and a navy suit together. It's fine to wear a pocket square...
I think with a peak lapel navy blazer it needs to have all the details of a double-breasted blazer, so flap pockets, not patch. And double vents are a must. As for cloth, either hopsack or serge. A blazer does not need patch pockets to differentiate it from a suit jacket, even if you don't get metal buttons.
I don't object to a close-cut suit, but if it bunches up in certain places and pulls in others when someone is standing still that's simply a poor fit.And is it still considered a poor fit when the jacket doesn't cover the rear?
Good tailoring was a priority for the costume designer. She chose fashion over fit. The chest bows out, the sleeves and the waist area have extensive creasing and the jacket doesn't cover his rear. Those elements of poor fit are fashionable, but there's no excuse for the collar standing away.And for the cuff mentioned above, I wrote an article about the cuff here: http://thesuitsofjamesbond.com/?p=5I prefer to use Frank Foster's name of Cocktail Cuff.
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