Ok, now that we're here, let's address the shoulder issue.
As I said, I'll go along with the majority, but I'll make my case for the spalla manica a camicia.
This is just my humble opinion and I'm not looking to start any of those infamous SF debates, so I'll make my case once and be done with it.
I think a piece of tailored clothing, like a man, should have integrity - to its purpose, the material, etc. in determining the thing that it is. Nothing can be beautiful...