If you're close to a surplus store I suggest you try one on. Military issue/grade are pretty amazing. The weight alone of a military grade peacoat is unbelievable. It's obviously based around function first than fashion, but I find them to be cut perfect, not necessarily baggy but not ultra slim either. Wool is definitely much 'itchier' though.At the end of the day though, you have to ask yourself if you'll truly be happy with or w/o the designer tag.