It's not a complete answer to your question, but I made the mistake of going for 'cheap' bespoke for a few years. Add a result there are half a dozen suits I never wear.
However back then I couldn't have afforded the suits I buy now.
Interesting. Mine was tailored perfectly (by Paul Munday at Meyer and Mortimer). Whereas the suit he made me from Rangoon doesn't hang quite as well.I have another length of Airborne left (grey with blue/white multistripe) and I am thinking about asking Elia Caliendo to make me a Neapolitan DB with vest.