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Posts by Sam Hober

4135W,"36oz" is an old term that used to refer to the weight of a length of silk around 10 yards long. Now it is a marketing term used by Adamley in Macclesfield England for one variety of their printed silks.The silk is a twill weave and not heavy nor is it stiff - so there must be some other variable at play here such as perhaps a heavy and stiff interlining that is not what you are comfortable with?Is your tie a printed twill silk?
41L35W,Perhaps some of the ties are wider than others?I wonder what the difference is in fabrics?
Veremund,I agree - completely.Wider ties will be easier to create dimples with but even narrow ties can have nice dimples with some patience and practice.
Ericgereghty,I am not sure but I will look.Sorry I can't answer quickly...As for the Carlo Franco ties - I remember them and Chuck clearly posted that his ties were mainly - (if not all) lined 6-folds which he creatively called double 4-folds as I recall - although I could be wrong it was a long time ago.I never could figure out how he added up to 8 folds on a 6-fold tie - a true sartorial mystery.Maybe later he did do some true completely unlined 7-folds but I never saw...
Eric Gereghty,A good question and the first thought that comes to mind is that some men love the small details that go into hand folding an unlined 7-fold - so if that is the case then an unlined 7-fold is a good idea.Once I experimented with a heavy rough silk making an unlined tie thinking that the unlined part of the construction would help with the overall drape - it did not - so we remade the tie with a wool interlining.We make some bow ties that are unlined and they...
A strong yes - I could not say it better.It is very rare that an unlined tie is the best choice.Unless you have a strong preference stay with the classic lined 3-fold (4-fold for grenadines).If you like a heavier tie try a lined 6-fold construction.
Raindog,"Well, as far as my understanding goes, both grenadine and shantung are silk fabrics... but I imagine you are asking about "regular" silk fabrics, like silk twill or satin."No grenadine is a weave which is often made with pure silk but not always for example we use a very beautiful cashmere/silk grenadine to make ties as well as pure silk grenadine.Shantung is traditionally woven in Shantung from wild silk and I doubt that more than a small percentage of what is...
Thunder March,"Based on what I remember, raw silk refers to silk with the natural coating intact,"Yes, although on occasion some silk mills will remove silk - weave and or print and then put the sericin back on the silk either partially or in the same amount as was natural."and wild silk refers to silk where the moth breaks the coccoon and thus making the silk only suitable for being spun and not woven (thus a lower quality silk)."Wild silk is silk that is not...
Thunder March,Reverse when removing your tie.Grenadines are best with a FIH knot only because Windsor type knots etc tend to make too large of a knot with a grenadine weave - you can make a tight knot but this may shorten the ties life due to abrasion.There are no rules on knots and ties - wear what you like.
I think you have the answer - you are perhaps making a tight knot.But normally the tightness won't be a big problem except maybe with a loose wear such as a grenadine then the problem tends to be abrasion.
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