or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:

Posts by Sam Hober

A jacquard fabric is simply one woven on a jacquard loom.Most modern fabrics are jacquards.Simple looms don't have the ability to easily do complex patterns which a jacquard loom can do - think of the designs as done by a computer. I think sort of like punch cards originally.In Lyon, France there is a great museum with actual antique looms that were used. I loved this museum.Also in Lyon there is at least one restored jacquard loom that is currently in use. The day I went...
Import Tariffs - ThailandHS Chapter/SubheadingTariff Rate Range (%)........................Woven Fabric-silk500717.5%-wool5111-51135%In Thailand silk has a higher tax than wool 17.5% duty plus 7% VATWool fabric is 5% duty plus 7% VATYou have to careful with what you read both online and on paper when writers or makers who don't actually make anything are reporting...As a point of reference In America there is a 25% wool fabric import duty and none on silk fabric.
TweedyProf,Napping is a finishing (done at the weavers not by the tie maker) given to fabric that results in a raised fluffy surface.Napping can be on one side or both sides.The fabric is rubbed against a sharp surface to produce the napping.With a napped surface the interlining can be just a touch fluffy but perhaps more important it stays where the tie maker wants it to be when making the tie.We almost always use napped one sided interlining fabric.Some random...
TweedyProf,A good interlining fabric is pure wool of a good quality that is finished with skill.These days you will only find this type of wool made in Italy and only from a very few producers as in maybe only one or two weavers.Interlining wools come in different weights (usually around 155cm wide) and can be napped on one or both sides. Napping is a brushing process and helps the tie maker.Interlinings should almost always be chosen by the tie maker as they will know...
TweedyProf,We have many interlinings but not one is a stiff one - stiff interlinings are not normally used in a luxury tie.The best Italian interlining wool weavers finish their wools to have a very soft feeling and be wrinkle resistant.When good things are said about Italian ties - the beauty and great knots - a lot of it comes from the beautifully finished tie and interlining fabrics. Great construction is often there and just as often not there as in tie retailer...
TweedyProf & Claghorn,Thank you for your suggestion.It might be interesting to photograph the range of colors that are possible when dyeing silk with madder root.Some of the matte colors that natural dyes do well influence me.In a few months from now our new workshop will be finished and I will hopefully have some time to pursue natural dyes again.The women in my wife's family have been involved with dying silk and cotton for generations so I have a lot of resources to...
AC,The slipping is usually from the fabric as an example a soft finish silk satin will often slip.Hermes ties are in a special niche (maybe their own?) and great in the right time and place.PS this is a great thread.
I am sorry there is no Sam Hober shop.We only have a workshop where we make our ties and we are very busy as we do everything in-house.So sadly time does not allow us to have a bricks and mortar store. Also we are not in Chiang Mai city, we are in the countryside.I am very friendly so maybe one day I will make a store just so I can meet some of our friends.
I think that you have misunderstood - this is a project for us based on a love for the environment and history and elegant style.We have no plans to us the old UK style of madder production and at no time have we suggested it. You can research UK environmental law if you would like more details.Instead we have traditionally (as in over 100s of years) used natural dies in our family dyeing and weaving tradition.Currently we use a wide range of fabrics ranging from modern...
Ed,I planted at our current workshop in Chiang Mai on level former rice fields, madder seeds about two years ago and they grew very well without much care.Then one day they were accidentally covered over by a tractor.Now we are almost finished building a new workshop again in Chiang Mai but in the hills. I think that the madder will grow well there as everything else that we are growing there so far is growing well.In this area there is natural dyeing being done with...
New Posts  All Forums: