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Posts by Sam Hober

Jay,Good questions.Not a recent discovery, for over 10 years I have suggested not using a 7-fold construction for grenadines.Yes, I do steer clients away from unlined 7-fold grenadines.The photos in our gallery are not taken by us and it is just a coincidence if you see seven-fold grenadines.In general unlined 7-folds have wrinkles and small uneven knots and can easily lose their shape.I only suggest ordering unlined 7-folds when you have worn them before and are 100%...
Am I missing something - the design is on the diagonal and horizontal as is normal...
Shantung and most fabrics are all seasons.Personal style choices are what forums such as this one are about.Other than very formal weddings or other similar events one should be free to wear what you like.I would not hesitate to wear any fabric in any season if it worked well for myself.But I grew up in the fashion business so perhaps this influences my thoughts...
Grossa is not too thick for an unlined 7-fold but I do not suggest using a grenadine silk for a 7-fold as grenadines tend to stretch and won't hold its shape over time.
Correct - our rough Thai silk is denser/thicker than normal - so more expensive to make.We start off with silk that is twisted together and then it is woven in a plain weave by hand.The silk is reeled not spun. (It is not wild silk)
Shantung refers to an area of ChinaRaw silk refers to the natural coating not being removed.Normally wild silk will have the moth break the cocoon which then means the silk can't be reeled and must be spun resulting in a lower grade of silk.Raw silk does not have to be from Shantung - correct and does not have to be Tussah or wild silk.Example a cultivated silk can be raw silk.While there will be some traditional silk families in Shantung with their own definitions which...
Shantung is an area of China and for hundreds of years wild silk from here was handwoven in a plain weave.Tussah is a more general term and not from one special area. It is probably an older term than Shantung.Wild silk is normally a lower grade of silk and is spun not woven.We have not used Shantung at any time and we also don't use wild silk as we prefer the higher quality reeled silk.We have woven silk by hand for a very long time over many generations of Noi's...
"make on a silk sheet of that age," I don't understand what you mean. Is a silk sheet a printed panel as they sometimes do in England? If so I don't order them as we lose silk - we are very careful when we cut so that we don't lose any fabric. I wonder if you have in Rome a fabric museum which may have some good research based answers to our historical questions? I like Italian fabric very much especially the way it is finished which is like magic it is so good....
I enjoyed your post: 1) When were you told 7-folds started and were they made continuously or were they not made for a number of years? I ask because I like history. 2) Is the last photo from your house? A great view. 3) I agree with much of what you wrote but some is of course personal opinion - which is always good to have. 4) Tight narrow edges are good and what we always do but many of the photos show irregular shapes which is the result of not being careful to...
Remaking a tie can be done correctly in which case it will be $35 and up.Your tie is worth only what you feel it is worth as a general rule I only suggest remaking ties when it was a gift from someone special.Now if someone is a student or something like that and can do it cheaply that is fine but won't be the same as an experienced custom tie maker remaking a tie.Remaking involves taking the tie apart, changing the interlining if needed, adjusting as needed and possible...
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