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Posts by Sam Hober

TweedyProf,A good interlining fabric is pure wool of a good quality that is finished with skill.These days you will only find this type of wool made in Italy and only from a very few producers as in maybe only one or two weavers.Interlining wools come in different weights (usually around 155cm wide) and can be napped on one or both sides. Napping is a brushing process and helps the tie maker.Interlinings should almost always be chosen by the tie maker as they will know...
TweedyProf,We have many interlinings but not one is a stiff one - stiff interlinings are not normally used in a luxury tie.The best Italian interlining wool weavers finish their wools to have a very soft feeling and be wrinkle resistant.When good things are said about Italian ties - the beauty and great knots - a lot of it comes from the beautifully finished tie and interlining fabrics. Great construction is often there and just as often not there as in tie retailer...
TweedyProf & Claghorn,Thank you for your suggestion.It might be interesting to photograph the range of colors that are possible when dyeing silk with madder root.Some of the matte colors that natural dyes do well influence me.In a few months from now our new workshop will be finished and I will hopefully have some time to pursue natural dyes again.The women in my wife's family have been involved with dying silk and cotton for generations so I have a lot of resources to...
AC,The slipping is usually from the fabric as an example a soft finish silk satin will often slip.Hermes ties are in a special niche (maybe their own?) and great in the right time and place.PS this is a great thread.
I am sorry there is no Sam Hober shop.We only have a workshop where we make our ties and we are very busy as we do everything in-house.So sadly time does not allow us to have a bricks and mortar store. Also we are not in Chiang Mai city, we are in the countryside.I am very friendly so maybe one day I will make a store just so I can meet some of our friends.
I think that you have misunderstood - this is a project for us based on a love for the environment and history and elegant style.We have no plans to us the old UK style of madder production and at no time have we suggested it. You can research UK environmental law if you would like more details.Instead we have traditionally (as in over 100s of years) used natural dies in our family dyeing and weaving tradition.Currently we use a wide range of fabrics ranging from modern...
Ed,I planted at our current workshop in Chiang Mai on level former rice fields, madder seeds about two years ago and they grew very well without much care.Then one day they were accidentally covered over by a tractor.Now we are almost finished building a new workshop again in Chiang Mai but in the hills. I think that the madder will grow well there as everything else that we are growing there so far is growing well.In this area there is natural dyeing being done with...
Ed is basically correct as usual - and he has a very clear way of explaining details."Ancient madder" silks for neck ties typically refer to a chemical process which has been illegal in the UK for many years - so basically there is no more "ancient madder" type silk with the old chalky hand available unless the silk is printed outside the UK in a country with weak environmental laws.Ancient madder ties refers to natural madder dyes which have not been used in tie printing...
Jmalog,Good questions first mommes is no longer commonly used so you don't need to think about as it won't be useful when buying ties.The 36 and 50oz weights are an old form of measurement of silk over about 10 yards in length and again are not normally used with the exception of Adamley/David Evans printed twill silk.36oz is a normal weight and 50oz is a heavy weight.What is often used when ordering silk to be woven is warp and weft counts.So for example a 350 warp per...
Philosophe,I agree with you.Looking great on a budget can be done.A good fit doesn't have to be very expensive - although luck helps here if you are a popular size.Wearing colors that work well for a person can be done at no extra cost.Luxury fabrics are hard to do on a budget but sometimes used clothes can be perfect.Great construction can be difficult at low cost but sales help and buying less but better clothes is always a good plan.
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