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Posts by Sam Hober

Shantung is an area of China and for hundreds of years wild silk from here was handwoven in a plain weave.Tussah is a more general term and not from one special area. It is probably an older term than Shantung.Wild silk is normally a lower grade of silk and is spun not woven.We have not used Shantung at any time and we also don't use wild silk as we prefer the higher quality reeled silk.We have woven silk by hand for a very long time over many generations of Noi's...
"make on a silk sheet of that age," I don't understand what you mean. Is a silk sheet a printed panel as they sometimes do in England? If so I don't order them as we lose silk - we are very careful when we cut so that we don't lose any fabric. I wonder if you have in Rome a fabric museum which may have some good research based answers to our historical questions? I like Italian fabric very much especially the way it is finished which is like magic it is so good....
I enjoyed your post: 1) When were you told 7-folds started and were they made continuously or were they not made for a number of years? I ask because I like history. 2) Is the last photo from your house? A great view. 3) I agree with much of what you wrote but some is of course personal opinion - which is always good to have. 4) Tight narrow edges are good and what we always do but many of the photos show irregular shapes which is the result of not being careful to...
Remaking a tie can be done correctly in which case it will be $35 and up.Your tie is worth only what you feel it is worth as a general rule I only suggest remaking ties when it was a gift from someone special.Now if someone is a student or something like that and can do it cheaply that is fine but won't be the same as an experienced custom tie maker remaking a tie.Remaking involves taking the tie apart, changing the interlining if needed, adjusting as needed and possible...
If an interlining is wool and well made and all good ties use wool interlinings (leaving out unlined ones) it will be in good shape basically forever.So most likely either the interlining is OK or the tie is cheaply made.As for the creases perhaps the silk is very thin which is not always a bad thing but does lead to creases.The more than 8 fold ties that are on occasion made mostly in Italy are basically a marketing tool and use very thin silk. There is no special benefit...
There are lots of claims about what a classic 7-fold is and since they often contradict each other by definition most of them are wrong.However, as I am in the listening business (custom made/bespoke only) I only make what I am requested to make, which makes life much simpler.Now practical points for seven-fold ties:1) A 7-fold tie has seven folds and that is what makes it a 7-fold tie - nothing else.2) An unlined 7-fold will wrinkle more than a lined tie.3) Over time it...
An interesting thread and I am enjoying all the thoughts... I find that some of the comments on tie construction are overly complicated and some I simply don't understand... There are a number of factors that make up a beautiful tie but going very slowly and paying close attention to details is perhaps the most important one with luxury materials being a close runner up. After that it is mostly personal choice. Also there are many sartorial myths floating about - some...
Robert Talbott is a good company - the pocket square should not come undone like that. You might consider sending it back to them via registered airmail they should be able to fix the problem easily. The best way to fix the problem is to remove the thread and then redo it correctly. Not make a knot and add to the sewing.
Claghorn,If we have enough fabric on hand we would be happy to make a pocket square.
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