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Posts by Sam Hober

We do not work with any other companies.I also feel that you should look first to body size rather than lapels.
Actually you are not confused - you have the answer - attention to quality.But I would judge at the company level not the nation level as there will always be exceptions.Not all fabrics in Italy or England are first rate.Some thoughts:Tradition is importantEducation is very importantPride in what you do means a lot.Having fun with the creative process really helps.If China wanted to create world class silks and ties it could - remember in the past they were luxury weavers...
Brazil also produces raw silk for export.China does not focus on quality currently but in the distant past wove beautiful silk and probably will again in the future.Italian fabric has a wonderful finish which is probably its biggest claim to fame.The handwoven silk that you hear about in India and Thailand is typically different not better or worse than Italian silk.We have woven silk in Thailand that is rough with slubs and we have woven smooth silk. It depends on what...
Nonchalant,I love your way of thinking outside the box - are you an engineer?Your method has worked for you and could work for others but has the possibility of not working and perhaps damaging the silk so as an inexpensive and quick method it is attractive but has some danger.Cappelli has a good reputation as a tie maker so you may want to consider sending it back to them if the tie has sentimental value.If the tie does not have sentimental value then it may not be a good...
Grenadines are indeed a loose weave and should be kept away from sharp edges and velcro as should all loose weaves. As far as pilling type wear I don't see too much of that with grenadines unless a tight knot is used. Pulls can be fixed by pushing them back into the silk - not cutting. Sometimes it is easy and sometimes challenging - we use a large needle. Recently I took a new piece of grenadine silk and tried to get a pull dozens of times as an experiment without...
Air conditioning on the dry setting works well for us. We keep it on in our silk room 24 hours a day.
Perhaps modern silk looms are more like this: http://vimeo.com/23521106 And not quite so modern for grenadines: http://www.fermofossati1871.it/IMMAGINI/telaio3A.jpg http://www.fermofossati1871.it/IMMAGINI/subbio1.jpg http://www.fermofossati1871.it/IMMAGINI/TELAIO4A.jpg
Very interesting program. I have visited an old silk loom that is still in use in Lyon today - it was a lot of fun to see it. Also the Lyon silk museum is worth visiting. These days silk looms for complex patterns are still jacquard style but more modern. So almost every silk weaver in the world uses them but a more modern version. Dobby looms are typically used for simple solids and stripes.
Of course if knits were hand made you could do customizations.
Aravenel,Well said.Raw silk as in silk with the natural coating has a matte look which is also different and interesting.I think when gentlemen talk about a washing machine look they are thinking more of a rough silk which originally was woven by hand and now is still woven by hand in some countries and also woven by machine in places like Italy.Some of the modern effect comes from the actual silk yarn and some of the look comes from the weaving.Below is an example of a...
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