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Posts by Sam Hober

Your trips to the Alps sound like fun, and Indonesia has very beautiful fabrics.What language I wonder is "ikat" originally from?It is a word that is used by many people but I can tell you that in Thailand the correct word is mudmee and the local artisans will not be happy if you use ikat to describe the yarn dyeing technique that they have been using for as long as they can remember.I mention this as it is important from a perspective simply being polite and respecting...
I am not sure what to say - jacquard weaving is a very cool technical innovation - from the below article it may have been a combination of the work of different people which sounds logical but I have not studied the history or mechanics of a jacquard loom and I don't personally know how to operate one but I have the general idea.Keep in mind that many tie brands are just that brands not tie makers and they might not know as much as they seem to and sometimes they totally...
In general all tie fabrics are woven (a few exceptions, knits come to mind), so saying a jacquard means woven is not very helpful.Forums like SF are certainly about fun but they serve a real purpose in explaining the technical aspects of clothes and I am strong supporter of this.EliodA,One of the best parts of Lyon is that you can walk almost anywhere.As I recall walking up the hill to the old Roman site and the cathedral is a bit of a walk but great exercise and gets you...
I don't typically use the term jacquard in conversation as it is like air everywhere in the world of silk...Printed ties commonly use a twill silk although there are lots of possibilities.I am not aware that "jacquard" has become vernacular for anything.Perhaps recently some SF posters have started to use it?I have been part of SF basically since the beginning (a bit more than 10 years) and I don't recall any use of the term jacquard as a type of tie until very recently....
A jacquard fabric is simply one woven on a jacquard loom.Most modern fabrics are jacquards.Simple looms don't have the ability to easily do complex patterns which a jacquard loom can do - think of the designs as done by a computer. I think sort of like punch cards originally.In Lyon, France there is a great museum with actual antique looms that were used. I loved this museum.Also in Lyon there is at least one restored jacquard loom that is currently in use. The day I went...
Import Tariffs - ThailandHS Chapter/SubheadingTariff Rate Range (%)........................Woven Fabric-silk500717.5%-wool5111-51135%In Thailand silk has a higher tax than wool 17.5% duty plus 7% VATWool fabric is 5% duty plus 7% VATYou have to careful with what you read both online and on paper when writers or makers who don't actually make anything are reporting...As a point of reference In America there is a 25% wool fabric import duty and none on silk fabric.
TweedyProf,Napping is a finishing (done at the weavers not by the tie maker) given to fabric that results in a raised fluffy surface.Napping can be on one side or both sides.The fabric is rubbed against a sharp surface to produce the napping.With a napped surface the interlining can be just a touch fluffy but perhaps more important it stays where the tie maker wants it to be when making the tie.We almost always use napped one sided interlining fabric.Some random...
TweedyProf,A good interlining fabric is pure wool of a good quality that is finished with skill.These days you will only find this type of wool made in Italy and only from a very few producers as in maybe only one or two weavers.Interlining wools come in different weights (usually around 155cm wide) and can be napped on one or both sides. Napping is a brushing process and helps the tie maker.Interlinings should almost always be chosen by the tie maker as they will know...
TweedyProf,We have many interlinings but not one is a stiff one - stiff interlinings are not normally used in a luxury tie.The best Italian interlining wool weavers finish their wools to have a very soft feeling and be wrinkle resistant.When good things are said about Italian ties - the beauty and great knots - a lot of it comes from the beautifully finished tie and interlining fabrics. Great construction is often there and just as often not there as in tie retailer...
TweedyProf & Claghorn,Thank you for your suggestion.It might be interesting to photograph the range of colors that are possible when dyeing silk with madder root.Some of the matte colors that natural dyes do well influence me.In a few months from now our new workshop will be finished and I will hopefully have some time to pursue natural dyes again.The women in my wife's family have been involved with dying silk and cotton for generations so I have a lot of resources to...
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