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Posts by Sam Hober

Thank you for your patience while we made this bow tie and took the photos.This bow tie is an unlined one made with a Macclesfield printed twill silk. We left the top half unpressed in this photo so you can see the difference.Here you can see the unlined inside of the bow tie:Both sides have now been pressed:The finished unlined bow tie (Note if the vertical height of the ends is taller the unlined aspect of the tie will show more with a soft unstructured look which I have...
Flying Monkey,I can't say for sure from your description but it sounds like the tie needs to be opened and then put back together - the interlining may need to be replaced.As a general rule you should have the tie maker help you as they will have the original interlining etc.So your best option is to have Conrad Wu help you.With tie alteration shops you get what you pay for and they will not do as good a job as the original tie maker.Doing it yourself will not save you any...
Dimitris,Interesting that you should mention knits as my daughter Samantha - Sam Hober - has been knitting scarves recently and is working on ideas for knitting ties.We still want to create knit ties but we are not yet ready.Normally knit ties are made like very long socks which limits the number of sizes that are practical.We need to come up with a solution that allows us to quickly change widths and lengths etc..
4135W,"36oz" is an old term that used to refer to the weight of a length of silk around 10 yards long. Now it is a marketing term used by Adamley in Macclesfield England for one variety of their printed silks.The silk is a twill weave and not heavy nor is it stiff - so there must be some other variable at play here such as perhaps a heavy and stiff interlining that is not what you are comfortable with?Is your tie a printed twill silk?
41L35W,Perhaps some of the ties are wider than others?I wonder what the difference is in fabrics?
Veremund,I agree - completely.Wider ties will be easier to create dimples with but even narrow ties can have nice dimples with some patience and practice.
Ericgereghty,I am not sure but I will look.Sorry I can't answer quickly...As for the Carlo Franco ties - I remember them and Chuck clearly posted that his ties were mainly - (if not all) lined 6-folds which he creatively called double 4-folds as I recall - although I could be wrong it was a long time ago.I never could figure out how he added up to 8 folds on a 6-fold tie - a true sartorial mystery.Maybe later he did do some true completely unlined 7-folds but I never saw...
Eric Gereghty,A good question and the first thought that comes to mind is that some men love the small details that go into hand folding an unlined 7-fold - so if that is the case then an unlined 7-fold is a good idea.Once I experimented with a heavy rough silk making an unlined tie thinking that the unlined part of the construction would help with the overall drape - it did not - so we remade the tie with a wool interlining.We make some bow ties that are unlined and they...
A strong yes - I could not say it better.It is very rare that an unlined tie is the best choice.Unless you have a strong preference stay with the classic lined 3-fold (4-fold for grenadines).If you like a heavier tie try a lined 6-fold construction.
Raindog,"Well, as far as my understanding goes, both grenadine and shantung are silk fabrics... but I imagine you are asking about "regular" silk fabrics, like silk twill or satin."No grenadine is a weave which is often made with pure silk but not always for example we use a very beautiful cashmere/silk grenadine to make ties as well as pure silk grenadine.Shantung is traditionally woven in Shantung from wild silk and I doubt that more than a small percentage of what is...
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