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Posts by Sam Hober

Formal shirts can certainly be worn with button down collars in America. Why not? Button down shirts are worn by many CEOs of large companies. Wearing shirts that are not button downs are a style choice and also OK. I grew up wearing button down Brooks Brothers shirts. There are dress rules for certain formal events in life, but developing your own style means not being bound by what others think and instead dressing as you like and feel that you look best. I don't...
No personal comments were intended - I am sure that there are many small ways to improve on a knot and dimple.One thought is to try and make the dimple before you tighten the knot.One other thought about interlinings is that with custom made/bespoke ties you need to cut the interlinings by hand one at a time.
It is a myth that it is just the interlining.First, not everyone likes the same type of knot.Next, not all wool interlinings are made alike and there are only a few (if that many) luxury wool interlining makers left. Even with luxury interlining wool there are many weights, different brushes and the number of layers can differ. Knowing which wool interlining to use and keeping on hand different types of wool is important.Adding a layer of cotton does not necessarily...
A great post Nillam, My father used to buy fabric in Madras from a factory in the 1960s with a similar look to your plaid. Very easy to order but deliveries were shall we say on time Indian style. You sound like you are having fun - best of luck with your adventure! I am curious how many times do you need to wash your fabric before it stops bleeding?
Measurement variances with a custom made/bespoke tie will result from a variety of reasons with cutting being the smallest reason. A luxury hand made tie will have variances in measurements from day to day and over time there will often be stretching. Remember the edges will/should be soft and the entire tie will flex and move as you wear it. What you need to look for in a luxury tie is the overall fit and finish. As an example if you request rolled edges - the edges...
Fabric costs as a percentage of a tie's price vary quite a bit depending on the fabric quality and the tie price.I can tell you that our silk costs keep going up and we have high VAT and duty etc to pay so our fabric costs are very high; yet we normally do not raise our prices.I am not sure how you do your math but I don't think we have ever had an extra long tie that even remotely approached double the price of a 59 inch tie perhaps you are thinking of someone else? For...
Our Macclesfield prints are hand screened in Macclesfield, England by David Evans/Adamley. Note some say David Evans has disappeared but I can tell you that we have received invoices from them within the last 10 years... So maybe the company ghost is still printing and invoicing.And I was told that when Silk Industries bought Adamley and David Evans they were merged and only the physical David Evans location was closed down. Staff, art etc mostly simply moved, so not much...
If your old tailor wasn't working for you - look for another - otherwise stick with him.We are now just outside of Chiang Mai in Sansai near MaeJo University.
Time is one of the most important parts of the equation.Make your order on your first day.Normally bringing your own fabric is a good idea but considering where you are perhaps using fabric available at the tailor is a good idea.Have you tried to find your old tailor?
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