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Posts by Sam Hober

Stook1,It can be hard to tell small details from photos on the internet. In real life the fina is tighter than the grossa and the weft and warp silk yarns blend together better.The warp yarns are the long ones and run the length of the looms and the weft yarns run across the warp yarns and give the pattern details
Again trust your tie maker as a general rule all fabrics even wool challis cashmere etc are better with interlinings. Helping with creases is not the only reason for interlinings. Please note I am talking about a beautiful 100 percent wool Italian luxury interlining Also again there is no need for more than 3 folds unless you like the feeling of a heavier tie.
Unless you have a special reason for a lightly lined tie you should always get the normal intérlining. I base this on the experience of making ties daily and listening to feedback. Also unless you have a preference for a heavier tie there is no reason for a 5 fold construction as you have already mentioned your interest in light interlining. A 5 fold construction and light interlining are not the best plan. Unless you have done this before and love it then it is fine...
I have never seen a true unlined Italian tie but most likely there are some here and there.Elsewhere in the world it is very easy to find true unlined ties - I can assure you that we make them regularly and all real bespoke tie makers can also make them when requested.The last I looked Robert Talbott in America was making unlined 7-folds and has been doing so for a long time.As for an unlined tie performing like a scarf it is true that they tend to blow a bit in the wind...
"Do note that due to many people taking selfies with a wide angle phone lens at arm's length, the proportions of their knots may be exaggerated compared to real life."Very interesting plus lighting can show colors that are not true to life.For the knot unless you know exactly what you asking for try being subjective and ask for a big or small etc knot measurements can be tricky to get correct.
A very good post - as a rule trust your tie maker when it comes to interlinings unless you have a strong reason to do otherwise.
No advantage to a 6 over 5 fold A 6 fold will have a heavier feeling and slightly different drape. 7 folds tend to wrinkle... As a general rule a good tie maker will pick the best interlining for a tie on rare occasions you may have a special reason to change an interlining if you know exactly what you are doing.
I am not clear about your question:So let's use an example;Normally printed Macclesfield silk from David Evans/Adamley is about one meter wide and can be many meters long.To make an unlined seven-fold tie with one piece of silk about 54 inches long would be the maximum the way we make ties. Note one piece of silk assumes no keeper - if a keeper is used as it almost always is then you would always need two pieces of silk.Now how many men wear a 54 inch or shorter tie? Less...
Tweedy Prof,Think of the sewing in two ways to clean up loose threads and to put the fabric back in place.To clean up just make small stitches to make the threads look better and stay where you want them.Then sew as needed to put the fabric where you want it.
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