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Posts by sfnapolifan

another way of asking my question (if anyone is interested in answering): 1. do any relatively mainstream rtw shoe manufacturers (e.g., alden) execute goodyear welted shoes without the controversial gemming? 2. if the answer to 1) is no, am i better off only buying blake-constructed shoes (strictly from the perspective of quality)? tx.
so, for someone who is just becoming interested in nicer shoes (i.e., graduating from cemented italian fashion shoes to things like alden and gravati), what is the key takeaway here? if i'm willing to pay, say, $300-$700 (retail) for a pair of shoes, what is my best bet wrt quality? a blake-constructed shoe like gravati (or, from what's been said here, rider), or a goodyear-welted shoe like alden? (does alden utilize this sinister gemming?) from the perspective of...
Quote: Originally Posted by radicaldog OK, here's a categorisation argument that could save your existing SB jackets (that's a counterfactual 'could', alas): your tweed coats need the 1b configuration because of the checks: more buttonholes and buttons would just make them too busy. Turn the blue donegal jacket into a suit, leave the checked tweeds alone, and order 3-roll-2 for future jackets in solid colours or with small patterns (herringbone etc.). To...
i'd stick with it as is--the roll to the single button looks good and adding the button hole or the weight of a button could slightly change the way the lapels roll. i've noticed on my jackets that the top buttonhole results in a little asymmetry between the two lapels, depending on the weight of the canvas and fabric. the left lapel seems to sit up a bit more, while the right lapel seems to open more due to the added weight of the button. minor, but you'd probably notice....
front-to-back balance needs to be addressed. this will be a tough one since there's no center back seam to let out. david reeves may be able to help.
ecco - cheap, comfortable, resilient beater shoes for bad weather, long walks and other situations where style is not the primary consideration. quilted barbour jackets - not all that cheap, for what they are, but i get about the same amount of compliments when wearing barbour as kiton.
Quote: Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy Carlos and his son at Oxford as well as his brother on the 4th floor are both very good. I have had them do everything from shortening jacket length, shortening sleeves from the shoulder, adding working buttons, adding cell phone pockets inside jackets, taking in shirts (without darts), etc. They are not cheap. They are usually pretty busy and it often takes two weeks or more for major work (cuffs he can do...
these are derbies (bluchers) - generally considered to be more casual than oxfords (balmorals)
The Borrelli (now De Corato) boutiques had (have?) some gray (both medium and heather) flannel trousers from Rota - not cheap at around $500, but you might be able to find them on sale coming up soon. I purchased a pair and recommend them - trim, but not quite as trim as Borrelli or Attolini in the same size. In case the brand is unfamiliar, I guess Rota used to make pants for Borrelli.
i see shoulder divots. i think this would be a great use case for mtm. fit has potential, but you're in between sizes and lengths. also, then, no worries on fitting the pants.
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