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Posts by sfnapolifan

given that some of the big timers here who own lobbs or eg's may have enough pairs of these shoes that they will not need a resole on any of them for some time, and that the marginal utility of the dollars involved in a factory refurbishment in excess of the cost of a local resole is truly marginal for said big timers, none of this would seem to matter very much (at least not to them). one last question (i think) from me, however: all natural materials wear out (sooner...
Quote: Originally Posted by Orgetorix In the equivalent thread going on over at AAAC, Nick V (proprietor of B. Nelson Shoe Repair) has weighed and disagreed with DW pretty significantly. I went over to akac, and even figured out how to use their forum search. after reading what nick had to say, it didn't seem to me that he even took issue with questions surrounding the soundness of gemming as a method of gy welt manufacture. he basically...
Quote: Originally Posted by sully The op has told us that this gemming is a weak point from his experience years ago in the repair trade, a valid opinion of course but this does not prove the case . Are EG and others having to correct this fault on a lot of their shoes.Does the op have any idea if these factories are getting a high amount of returns due to this choice of manufacture,I would be interested to know and if it is a real problem then all this...
my contention is not that rewelting isn't a specialist job. the op states, however, that gemming can/will fail as early as the first needed outsole replacement. the implication being that the local repair shop will then glue it back, without necessarily knowing where it was supposed to be in the first place. so, resoled shoes come back fitting incorrectly or at least differently from how they did prior to the resole. the further implication is that this would not be an...
Quote: Originally Posted by sully Of course not all RTW is of good quality but this applies to many products and always has. Was all footwear of high quality material and build in the days before machinery, I dont think so There would have been all levels of work to cater for rich , poor or working man. While the romantic ideal of unique skills and heralded standards of quality is very noble I suspect the reality for the few high quality...
Quote: Originally Posted by laphroaig This has been mentioned here a few times. Perhaps never mentioned directly but the link to the excellent AAAC article explaining good year welt shoe construction has been mentioned plenty of times, and that explains insole attachment using gemming quite clearly. http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/T...nstruction.htm in typical fashion, i saw this before, but i only looked at the pictures. there's nothing in...
Quote: Originally Posted by DWFII I am am old man...well not that old...but may I give you a piece of advice? It's free...? Don't regret the Aldens, just learn. Learn to appreciate good, better and best. That's all. Not everyone can afford better much less best but everyone can learn. I hope that didn't come off too pretentious, it was meant sincerely. don't get me wrong... my cigar shell chukkas aren't going to end up on the b&s. in...
Quote: Originally Posted by DWFII I am not certain I know what you mean by "Norwegian." If it is what I think it is, it involves most of the same steps as hand-welted. And all of work. To be honest, I'm not sure either... I'm new to getting my wardrobe in shape and even newer to thinking about better shoes. My first purchases in this vein were a couple of pairs of Aldens (which I guess are of inferior machine-welted construction) and a pair of...
also, do you have an opinion on norwegian?
Quote: Originally Posted by DWFII I apologize for not addressing this sooner. Assuming you want the best quality in RTW that you can get here's my thoughts (from the perspective of a shoemaker.) Goodyear welted shoes can be machine welted to a machine cut holdfast as an alternative to gemming. But I would have to agree that it is not much of an improvement...some, perhaps...but more importantly not to be found much anymore. I know of no one...
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