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Posts by hymo

It's a vendetta because the guy who started all this, SartodiNapoli, is an unbelievably eccentric, toxic, and just evil creature who has been banned multiple times on this forum. His infamy started as Spalla Camicia, where he accused Chiaia Napoli of scamming him of shirts and of atrocious workmanship/ fit/service. He then hounded the person who introduced him to this tailor, Cravatte Noir, for years, posting Cravatte's picture in various online forums and calling him a...
If I was Acorn, I'd be quite concerned. Their stalwart quality, the Grange, is easily exceeded in quality by any number of Indian imports at a fraction the price. Their higher qualities are all uncompetitve against the Italians. On the design front, they have zero talent. Acorn's strength is their direct-to-consumer model, no minimum orders, and expansive collection.
Amazing fit!
Robert, the silhouette you wish for is impossible with a corpulent body like yours. The jacket the tailor made for you is technically sound and is how a technically-sound jacket looks like on a corpulent customer. Do not have anything on the jacket changed. The trousers are however quite unfortunate. I would not return to the tailor for further alterations. HKD 4K is too little money to expect multiple alterations.
Once they see that the alterations are necessitated by their fault, not the customer's taste, I'm pretty sure they will waive it.
I think you're just standing over erect in the pictures. Assume your normal slouched posture, not your ideal posture, when taking the pics.
The problem may only be apparent with customers who have rounded shoulders. With these sort of shoulders, the entire jacket is suspended off a point about 3/4 of the shoulder. From there to the tip of the shoulder, the jacket shoulder is unsupported, with a pocket of air between human shoulder and jacket. Then, at the sleevehead area, two or more rows of machine stitches go through the pads and canvas and cloth, tacking (and compressing) them. The way I've dealt with this...
It may have to do with the part where the shoulder pads are machine sewn to the canvas and cloth. This is the step either immediately before the sleeves are mounted or after. I think if the coatmaker is alerted to this problem, it will disappear quite quickly. But then the shoulder will be mildly droopy overall.
I doubt it is ever a running stitch if sewn by hand. There are these relatively long stitches on the underside that can snag on things. With a backstitch, any damage to the stitch remains local. With a running stitch, you'd have to re-do the entire pick stitching. I guess with swelled edges it is necessary to maintain the full thickness of the seam allowances. It is customary to "stage"/"step" the seam allowances to make for thin edges. This requirement is a big danger,...
It has to do with shoulder slope of the yoke. If you try make your shoulders slope downwards even more, the bunching will disappear.
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