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Posts by hymo

It has that Foo look!
In fact some tailors use "fitting canvasses"; these are canvasses which do not go into final jackets but are used and reused in skeleton bastes. They tend to look old and worn. So if you see a permanently made canvas which looks like it's 10 years old in your baste, it's only a fitting canvas. It's a good thing.
The other thing I would watch out for are canvasses which appear to have been permanently made up during the skeleton baste fitting stage (the first fitting). I would personally avoid machine sewn canvasses, but even if you do not mind, the canvas should nonetheless only be provisionally sewn (by hand) during the first fitting. Major changes to the forepart can take place during the first fitting, and the canvas often needs to be taken apart again and recomposed and...
Very interesting thread, this one. Would just like to shed some light on hand padded canvas vs. machine sewn canvas. The best way to bring together the various layers of canvassing is by hand padding by someone who knows what he's doing/ has been properly trained. The pad stitches on the canvas are not in any way homogenous; over most of the area, the stitches should be lax, i.e. there is give in the thread. You do not pull it taut. In some areas, more limited in area,...
Japanese restaurants have been known to refuse American customers' request for sugar in their green tea...
Should check if the shirt was a CEGO.
I guide my customers towards close-fitting cuffs with reserve length in the sleeves. A cuff should never hang from the sleeve; it should stay in place because of its small circumference. I find hanging cuffs an abomination.
It's a vendetta because the guy who started all this, SartodiNapoli, is an unbelievably eccentric, toxic, and just evil creature who has been banned multiple times on this forum. His infamy started as Spalla Camicia, where he accused Chiaia Napoli of scamming him of shirts and of atrocious workmanship/ fit/service. He then hounded the person who introduced him to this tailor, Cravatte Noir, for years, posting Cravatte's picture in various online forums and calling him a...
If I was Acorn, I'd be quite concerned. Their stalwart quality, the Grange, is easily exceeded in quality by any number of Indian imports at a fraction the price. Their higher qualities are all uncompetitve against the Italians. On the design front, they have zero talent. Acorn's strength is their direct-to-consumer model, no minimum orders, and expansive collection.
Amazing fit!
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