or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:

Posts by dopey

One of the shops in the Burlington Arcade used to make formal versions of these. They worked great and looked pretty cool. The fronts looked like a regular waistcoat with tabs as in the photo above. The back was like a regular pair of brace buttons and went under the waistcoat back (which was itself a relatively low back typical of a backless waistcoat). I remember it pretty well, having borrowed a pair. I haven't seen them made in many years, though.
Interesting little piece about an Omega ad, art, Mecca, death threats and money. http://www.artmarketmonitor.com/2015/02/20/the-artist-who-cried-copycat/
I haven't seen that, but navy herringbone flannel isn't what I mean. I was talking about a simple, solid navy flannel, and most are pretty flat in color.
Nave double-breasted looks great in just about any decent cloth. For your wedding, a little mohair would make it really nice, but that mohair sheen, while very elegant, can be a little too much if it is your only nice suit. But if you are willing to go DB in the first place then it is likely not your only nice suit or you don't really care.The one navy cloth I am not a fan of for suits is navy flannel. Gabardine, while not a favorite here drapes beautifully and would...
Correct. You have put aside the fabric but not the funds required to make the suit, so the liability is unfunded. At least that is what I was thinking way back when: I realized that I wasn't sitting on a stockpile of cloth, I was sitting on a bunch of only partially-made and partially-paid-for suits.
As a friend explained about the membership requirements at his once-exclusive club that has now fallen on harder times: They are looking for a pulse and a checkbook, and they are not so strict about the pulse.
Exactly. or maybe topcoat. I keep looking at the cut length and saying - "that is great, don't screw it up."I think it is the Coops 2 but without an overcheck, but I don't recall the Coops 2 for sure. It is a large scale B&W glen check, but the black has gray and the white has cream so not as severe as it could be.
I still have the Coops 1. I like it so much I am afraid to have it made.
I think I have explained this before, and it is obviously just my opinion, but the rule is that the dial should display the following:1. Brand2. Other information the owner should have that isn't readily apparent.That is why depth rating should go on the dial (or else be engraved on the case back).On a solid case back watch, putting "automatic" or "perpetual" makes sense. It doesn't if there is a display back.Chronomotre or Superlative Chronometre is ok because there is...
New Posts  All Forums: